The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Front end lowering idea - fabrication

Still trying to figure out the cheapest, best way to lower my C20. This idea was brought up to me and thought I'd run it by y'all. Cut out the existing coil spring mount on lower control arm, the pocket where the spring sits. Fabricate new mount/spring pocket but approximately 2" lower resulting in 3-4" drop. This way, original springs could be retained and not affect the ride. Here's a picure: lower control arm fab.
I love fabrication so this is right up my alley. The rear bags will be bolt-in, boo hiss! Can anyone think of any adverse effects I may incur doing this?
-David

the ride will still be affected, as the suspension geometry changes just as if you'd cut the springs. what you do gain is no change in spring rate, i suspect that is what you mean. just make sure your bump stops are doing their job correctly after the drop.

lowering spindles or Zing the frame are the only ways i know of around that. i'm no expert though, i had cut springs on a 63 lincoln at one time. if i had the resources i'd have done what you're considering. go for it

Yeah, spring rate stays same. That's gotta be better than cutting coils I'd think.
-David

Check Moroso, they have an a-arm fab kit that you could mod. Competition Engineering has some trick pices that may help as well.

Sorry not Moroso, Competition Engineering. Part #C2450 or C2451 with a nice coil over shock or air bag. Oh you said cheap didnt you.

that would work, but i would just cut the spring.

make sure you get shorter bumpstops, and shorter shocks.

If you go w/2inch lower spring the ride is not too bad, a little over $100 from CPP or ECE. I have them in front of my 64. I cut about an inch off of the bumpstop. Brian

early classic makes a half ton conversion drop spindle in case you want to go with five lugs.

Yep, yep. Cheap. I can get the pipe for free. The only thing that'll cost me is welding wire and a couple cans of paint. I'll be changing out the ball joints at the same time but, they need done anyway.
Why cut coils if I don't have to? Yeah, this'll take a bit longer than cutting coils but I keep the same spring rate, right?
Well, nobody's mentioned any possible adverse affects. That's good.
I'm taking two weeks off in September. That's when this is gonna happen.
Thanks for the input thus far.
-David

You will still have 40 year old springs, I noticed a big improvement when I replaced mine. Brian

let me sit in it, I can lower it real quick, would be a real cheap deal

Well, maybe the best bet is to lower it 2" with the fabrication and then install new 2" drop springs.
Fred, so you're sayin' your wife's a good cook huh?
-David

It should work OK, the most it might do is throw off the camber a little. Head to the aligment shop when you get it on the road just for peace of mind! Joe

It will work great BUT make sure whoever does the welding knows what hes doing and a good alignment shop will be the next step.

I know the guy who's gonna do all the fabrication and welding. A very capable fellow indeed. Goes by "mugsy". Ya heard of him?
-David

Have seen a similar idea on a VERY different application: My Austin-Healey Sprite parts book has lowering kits that do just that. The spring pocket on the sprite/midget are bolted to the control arms, so they make longer bolts and spacers to lower the front end about 1/2 to 1". There is no mention of adverse geometry.

Good Luck