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I want to add a new dual chamber mastercylinder (drum/drum,no booster) to my 50 chevy 3100 w/ original huck brakes. I also want to replace original steel lines. I hear that bending lines can be trickey, so is there a supplier that has ready made, pre-bent lines for my truck?

I show 'em in Chevy Duty and LMC Truck catalogs. Any of the major catalogs should have them. Let me know how it works out; brakes are number one for my 47 as soon as my garage thaws

Where did you find a dual MC without booster? I wasn't sure they made those...

jay

classicperform.com has them and the adapter that is also needed

Jay -
I just bought a drum dual master cylinder from Master Power Brakes without a booster. They have them with right and left line connections. Very nice and accommodating folks!
www.mpbrakes.com

I see that 6cylindertexas beat me to a link to MPBrakes so I'll add this as seconding his opinion.

[img]http://www.mpbrakes.com/mc1004.jpg[/img]
Power masters like the one above, usually have very shallow holes in the piston for the rod. As it says, that one is set up for use below the floorboard.
Non power masters must have a smaller piston diameter or you will have to use both feet on the pedal. Non power masters usually have a very deep hole so that the rod does not fall out when you take your foot off the pedal and the spring returns the rod faster than the fluid moves the piston back.

Here is a page from MP with answers to everything you never thought you needed to know.
Master Cylinders

does anyone know if that one shown from mcbrakes would be a "bolt in" with some mods to the lines? i have a 54 chevy and need to replace the mc and may as well go this way if it doesn't require major mods.

djed50,
you will need an adapter as the original bolted to the frame and if you look at the bolt holes on the MC you are talking about, it does not bolt to the original location but paralel to the frame on an adapter. classicperform.com has some great installation info and exploded views on this in there tech section. you would also need to run seperate lines to each chamber of the new MC. vwnate1 gave me the idea to get rid of the T junction that splits front/rear lines and get a couple of elbows and then run your own lines to the MC. just picked them up from FLAPS....looks like they will work great.

djed50 -
Check this out for the adapter you would need.
www.chevyduty.com/frame-store.html

:confused:
OPPS ! Sorry!
You need to type in "Master Cylinder Adapter Kit" in the Search box.
That's it!

thanks guys!

I'm a bit late to this thread, but, anyway:
After a somewhat unfortunate incident last month involving a load of goad manure, a rusted brake line, and a very steep hill, I've decided to upgrade the system on my '63 daily driver.
I immediately replaced all lines, drums, etc., and now its time for the master. I want to go to a dual master. Why would someone opt to not get a power assist? Any reasons other than price?
I want to keep the drum/drum layout, go to a dual master, and, basically, have the safest system I can get without rebuilding the whole truck ....

Blue 50,

I ordered a pre-bent kit last year...it was OK...but I would try doing it yourself. The kit was expensive. The lines come bent in half in a box....that surprised me....

You need a good bender, flaring tool and patience.....save your old lines..if it is not too late...for a pattern.....

Blue, I was asking the same questions just a while back and these guys talked me into doing it myself. It was the right thing to do. You can get a kit from Eastwood Co. to start for around 30 bucks. I did end up going to Napa to get some misc. stuff and an extra line and cut it to the size I needed.
Everything that these guys have mentioned is right.
Go for it!!!

f63 -
In my case (I've got a 1937 pickup) and in most cases with a truck up to at least 1955, the master cylinder is under the floorboard and fitting a booster under the floor is a bit of a challange. I don't know if your's is under the floor or not, but that would probably be a reason not to use a booster for many of the truck owners on this site.
Just guessing!

Guys,
after reading what you all say, it seems that patience and practice is what's needed. I have plenty of time, but I want to be back on the road by spring, so I guess I might give it a try. What kind of savings can be had by bending my own? new steel kit was around $145. I also heard that the bend over the rear end can be tricky? any thoughts on that?

blue50, just don't get in a hurry, get a tubing bender(available at your local parts store) and try not to make too sharp of bends. Another thing to remember is that it is easier to bend a line than it is to straighten it! Bend a little, check fit, bend a little, check fit, etc. I think anything you think you can do yourself, TRY IT! Much more rewarding, less expensive, and my theory in buying tools is..."If you need them once, you'll need them again."
-tubing bender
-tape measure
-flaring tool(double inverted flare type)
-protractor(not required, but helpful)
just a note, remember to slide your flare nuts onto the line BEFORE you flare the end. If not, you get to cut it off and flare it again.

The rearend can be tricky...save your old one when you take it off. If not, plan on taking your time and buy an extra length to do it again. Be prepared to bend some and when it starts to go bad, stop for the night ( or day or whatever)....

If you buy a kit, you will still have to do some extras for the double master....unless someone offers a kit for a double. I did not see one for my 46.

I too am considering a change on my 49. Looking at various vehicles in the junkyard, the one that caught my attention was an older Dodge van. It had a sideways mounted MC with a small (6-7 inch) dual action servo all mounted on a frame with a bellcrank from the brake pedal. It looks like the assembly would fit well under the floor, and the mount should be easy to modify. the big problem would be fabricating the pushrod from the original pedal to the servo, but that may not be that hard, either. Has anyone tried this approach before?

The Filling Station has a complete bolt in kit

[img]http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~showpic~0000014a~AAANV~~~[/img] http://www.fillingstation.com/

Frank