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#1612174 09/28/2026 7:25 PM
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'Bolter
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I didn't want to hijack Roads Scholar's thread but this is related to his.

I have no problems with my steering. It doesn't jump around, there's no slack it it so I'm probably just poking a hornet's nest here. Anyway, I decided to look inside and it's packed with thick reddish brown grease.

Jon G suggest a 50/50 mix of Corn Head grease and 90w mineral oil in order for it to reach all areas of the gear itself.

I'm not removing the gear or rebuilding it. There's really no way to get all the thick grease out without disassembly.

What I was wondering is if it would make sense to add 90w mineral oil to the box and hope that the action of steering operation would mix the grease and oil together inside.

Or, should I leave well enough alone and forget about it?


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,291
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
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That's a very good question, Otto. I can see where adding the Mineral oil could loosen up the grease that's in there but I'm also thinking about it creating a leak at the seal on the shaft. I "overhauled" my gear box by installing new bushings and a new seal and then filled with cornhead grease. My initial issue was play in the output shaft ( a lot ! ). If you end up going with the oil added, let us know how it turned out if you would.


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
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J
'Bolter
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Otto - I did what you are describing and it promptly ran out my pitman seal. Bright side, found and eliminated one more leak.

Once I replaced the seal, I did the 00 cotton picker grease.


1951 3100
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'Bolter
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Steering works, no leaks. I should probably just leave whatever kind of grease is in there alone. No need to open another can of worms.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,291
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
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Posts: 1,291
Sounds like a plan. Don't like worms.....unless they are on a hook.


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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As I believe I mentioned before I am only speaking for the AD trucks...and I will admit I only have only spent 62 years fiddling with them. You folks can use corn head grease if you wish. Undiluted it is not correct and not what was meant for the AD steering gear and there is explanation of that by GM. If GM wanted you to use a thick grease, they would have not put a pour-in plug at the top...that much should be easily understood. And they would not have written this in the Shop Manual:

"The steering gear is filled at the factory with a special all-season gear lubricant. Seasonal change of this lubricant is unnecessary and the housing should not be drained. Whenever required, additions should be made using a lubricant which, at low temperatures is fluid and will not "channel" or cause "hard steering" and which will provide satisfactory lubrication under extreme summer conditions."

GM goes on to explain the pipe plug is positioned so as to prevent over-lubricating and that you should never use a pressure gun to force lubricant in the unit.

It is a design issue...the engineers had reasons for wanting it this way. If anybody in the audience is pouring corn head grease out of a grease tube into that hole, please take a video of it. I would really enjoy seeing it happen. Below are a couple of images of corn head grease. It is packaged in a grease gun tube for a reason.
Attachments
MVC-430F.JPG (38.89 KB, 18 downloads)
MVC-429F.JPG (36.87 KB, 19 downloads)

Last edited by Jon G; 09/29/2026 1:39 PM.

~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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'Bolter
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The thing with thick grease is, it gets pushed out of the way and doesn't return. You could very well have a box full of grease and still have the gear teeth going metal on metal, and it's even worse if the gear box has a line of roller ball that run on the worm shaft.

If you pull the side cover off the gear box and carefully dig out what you can, you can make room for room gear oil. You then can reinstall the cover without changing the adjustments. At most you might have to cut a new gasket. Add some gear oil and work the steering back and forth. Your reddish brown grease is likely contaminated with rust, giving it the reddish brown color. At the lowest point in the gear box is the lower worm shaft bearing, most were barrel shaped and hard to come by, this is where water sets. I had to throw away two worm shafts before I found a good one due to crappy rusty grease.

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'Bolter
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I agree with you , Jon. I'm just wondering what I should do in my particular case. The grease inside my steering gear has been in it for more than 25 years at least.

I'm experiencing no problems with the steering but I got curious and removed the fill cap yesterday and discovered that the contents are more grease-like than oil-like.

I'm not going to remove the gear box so whatever is in there is probably going to stay in there.

Jon, would you recommend adding 90w mineral oil to the box? Would that accomplish anything?

Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 09/29/2026 2:13 PM.

1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,808
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Joe H
Your reddish brown grease is likely contaminated with rust, giving it the reddish brown color. At the lowest point in the gear box is the lower worm shaft bearing, most were barrel shaped and hard to come by, this is where water sets. I had to throw away two worm shafts before I found a good one due to crappy rusty grease.

I'll see if I can get a close up picture of the grease in the hole.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,808
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,808
.
Attachments
IMG_20260929_101628138.jpg (59.51 KB, 2 downloads)
IMG_20260929_101623478.jpg (166.97 KB, 2 downloads)
IMG_20260929_101555949_PORTRAIT.jpg (106.56 KB, 2 downloads)


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)

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