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#158064 06/09/2006 6:20 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 348
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 348
have anyone modified a 4 post to eliminate bolting it to the floor by making cross members to each of the post so it will not have to bolt it to the floor?


1949 SUBURBAN
In the Gallery
#158065 06/11/2006 1:51 PM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 18
B
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 18
I have not done that, but it sounds like a great idea. Everyone I know just leaves them free standing and it scares the hell out of me. But no one wants to bolt them down.

If you used 1/8 x 1 inch cold rolled and layed it flat on the floor making a square frame and bolting to the base it would keep the legs from spreading. However it would not keep them from colasping inward.

You might consider 1x2 square tume maybe 1/8 wall and bolting it up a few inches from the base. Or building a square frame and resting on top of it.

You would not need much if you built a frame.

I will tell you that anything is better than leaving it free standing. But building a base and bolting to the base would be just as good as the floor.


1949 Chevy Pickup, 1929 Model A, 1962 RollsRoyce

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#158066 06/11/2006 5:04 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
Unless you're planning to move the lift alot, I would suggest bolting it down. Those lift posts take alot of strain when a vehicle is on them. I've seen what happens when a lift fails-not a pretty sight. If you need to move the lift however, I think that 4"x4" tube would be a better choice for bracing. The Rotary lift in the shop I work in has that size bar in the front and rear, it is bolted down also.
If you need a portable 4 post lift, they are available from Backyard Buddy. They are already braced and have casters on them for easy moving.


Bill Burmeister
#158067 06/12/2006 1:37 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,971
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,971
I sent for the Backyard Buddy video. They make them different and I would like to get one. The video will show the differences between lifts and the way they are designed.

#158068 06/12/2006 5:41 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 348
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 348
thanks for your input i think i will have to make a frame on the top also. my hoist is a professional one so it maybe worth the extra work.


1949 SUBURBAN
In the Gallery
#158069 07/06/2006 3:35 AM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 242
J
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Posts: 242
I am going woth a ROTARY "Revolution" lift, it is there newest 4 post lift. No need to bolt it to the floor and all you need is a 4 inch thick concrete slab (standard thickness) for a garage floor. However, on my garage I am going with a 6 inch slab (4000 psi mix) because doing so will allow me to install a 2 post ROTARY lift (10,000 lb capacity) without pouring footers under the slab. Do your research before buying a 4 post lift, as the saying goes "you get what you pay for"......

just my 2 cents

John Gott


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T/Sgt. Gott (28 years of service with the USPP)
1940 Chevy G506 4112 cargo dump
1942 Diamond T G509 969A 4 ton wrecker
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#158070 07/07/2006 6:34 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 128
J
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J Offline
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 128
Remember, they usually only fall on you once.

John

#158071 07/07/2006 8:04 PM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 47
T
Member
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Posts: 47
Follow the maunfacture's written instructions or spend some time with their engineering group. If they say do this, do that. If they do not do that, do not do that. Then when it fails, your posterity has someone to sue.

When it comes to weight handling stuff, always go with the OEM recommendations.


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