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| | | | Joined: Aug 2023 Posts: 17 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2023 Posts: 17 | I was changing the mechanical fuel pump on my 1964 bus "Bessy" and I had trouble getting the sliding rod to stay up so I could get the pump arm to go back in. Someone suggested a hacksaw blade because they bend easy. I figured I would share this in case anybody else was having the same issue or will have.
Thank you all
Last edited by Gdads51; 06/17/2024 7:44 PM. Reason: edit title and move to correct on-topic forum
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 5,777 Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT | | Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 5,777 | squatchie86, I have added a bit to your title to move the post into the correct on-topic forum The Engine Shop for folks to see and use as it may help them. Thanks for sharing! 
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100Follow this story in the DITY Gallery"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 2,436 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 2,436 | Given that Bessie had a rod activation there fuel pump, I'm guessing that she doesn't have a six cylinder engine.
Some (all?) Chevy small block V8 engines had a short bolt "around the corner" on the front of the block from the fuel pump pushrod. When you removed the short bolt you would find that the bolt hole went all the way to the fuel pump pushrod. All you needed to do was the thread a longer bolt into the hole and lightly snug it up against the pushrod to get the pushrod to stay in place. Worked best when the pushrod was in the "all the way up" position. At least that is how it worked on my wife's '72 307 Chevy engine.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,982 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,982 | Bill Hanlon is correct, all Chevy V8's have a push rod and all the small blocks have the bolt hole into the push rod cavity. I can't remember if the big block's have the bolt hole, it's been several years since I've owned a 396 and 454.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 1,451 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 1,451 | Not all small block V8 have the hole threaded the last bit, need to grind a bolt to a smaller diameter. Don't tighten the bolt past finger tight, have seen pump Pushrod bent in block by Mongo, it can be a bear to get out of the block.I had a dude working for me that did that, rod hung up and only give small pump action.
BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022
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