I think you better start looking for another engine. I don't see how you could clean that up. The seal is leaking bad. A 250 would be a better engine anyhow. George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
If the center section of the balancer is cast iron then the "weld" may be brazed. The bronze/brass could be ground off carefully and might show a seam, in that case I think you could separate the two. I think the balancer is a lost cause but maybe the crank can be saved.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Grind it off, junk the crank and balancer, drop a 250 crank in, change the pistons to Chevrolet 307 V8 flat tops, add a new balancer and you gain cubic inches plus compression, 8:1 up to 9:1 with no extra work. Have the new crank drilled for a SBC retaining bolt. Replacement balancers are pretty cheap.
Use a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder to cut the outer ring off the balancer, leaving the three threaded puller holes attached to the center hub. Then grind the weld flat with the hub, and center drill as close to the middle as possible. The crankshaft snout is 1 1/4" in diameter. Step-drill the hole until it's that big or slightly larger. That will weaken the weld bead so you can use a crowfoot puller to remove the hub. You can probably salvage the crankshaft that way. As mentioned above, the 230 block can become a 250 with a crankshaft swap. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Well there is a first 😵â€ðŸ’«ðŸ˜µâ€ðŸ’«ðŸ˜µâ€ðŸ’«ðŸ˜µâ€ðŸ’«ðŸ˜µâ€ðŸ’«
1962 C10 with a 235 6cyl -- all of the drive train seems to be original. Some of this story is in the Side Lot Some people like a new truck. I liked the old ones.
Got the engine on a stand and picked up a turning adapter and filled the cylinders with half ATF and acetone. Letting soak. Today I am going to remove rockers and push rods. Drained oil, was black and about half full, no particulates noticed. Frame and cab coming back from bead blast on Wednesday.
I'd grind across the whole face area first until the weld is close to flush with the with the face of center of the balancer and crank snout. If it is weld it will likely then break or crack, use a slide hammer to try to pull it. If the goofs that did that would have just used a small amount of retaining compound on the ID of the balancer hole in the last 1/8 inch left as it was being installed they wouldn't have caused the mess. I don't understand why they wanted to make installing those dampers so difficult in those days, as well as hoping they would not come off not being retained with a bolt. I would like to see the factory install process.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
Yes, the 235 and 261 were the last of the forged crankshafts. 194/230/250 and I believe the 292's had cast crankshafts. Just like baby chickens- - - - -"CHEEP- - - -CHEEP- - - -CHEEP!" Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
