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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 37
E
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 37
Now that I have my damper back and restored I am having the opposite problem when it slipped on easliy. Now after a little anti seize it goes on about 1 inch. I have been tapping with a heavy rubber mallett and a 3x3 piece of oak across the face so as to evenly distribute the striking force. But no go. The crank isn't tapped so I can't use my installer. How hard can you hit one of these before the crank shoots out the bellhousing?

Thanks everyone!


My rule of life: You can have anything you want; you just can't have everything you want.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
evergreen,
if you are talking about a 216 or 235, you don't want to be hammering on the face of it. Put the bolts in where you had them with the puller and hammer against the bolts . Use a heavy piece of steel against them and a baby hand sledge. Make sure your keyway is positioned properly and not causing a it to jamb..

The pulley is isolated from the center portion by rubber that would have been newly installed for you.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,191
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,191
Same is true for a 230/250 engine. Becarefull where you hit. It will take more than a rubber mallet to get it in place. A piece of pipe just bigger than the crank will work great. It will put all the force right where you need it and not out where you don't! Joe


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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