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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 20
D
New Guy
New Guy
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 20
I am in the process of taking off all brake drums to rebuild brake system. Front drums are off but can not get the rear drum/hub to come off truck.
Is there a trick I am missing? This subject was covered before but I'm still lost as how to remove these from the truck. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Don Mims
Cumming, Ga

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 50
G
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
G Offline
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 50
Don, I have a 51 1.5 ton. there are 3 slotted screws that hold the drum to the hub.


1951 1.5 ton 4400
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 50
G
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
G Offline
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 50
Don, Will the drum turn?


1951 1.5 ton 4400
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 20
D
New Guy
New Guy
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 20
Yes the drum turns. I've been driving around without brakes. I need to replace the wheel cylinders. I was told to remove the hub cover and pull the axle out. Then remove the lock ring and two lock nuts and the brake drum comes off. Hope this works.
Thanks. This is a new adventure for me.
Don

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
Don,

Doing what you described takes more than just a claw hammer and pair of pliers...hope you have some big stuff.

Stuart.

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,893
W
Socket Breaker
Socket Breaker
W Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,893
Uhm - I dunno about the big bolts but on the 1/2 tons from that era - to get the drum off ya hadda take the whole thing apart from the back - cuz of those slotted screws greg1.5 mentioned... it is quite aggravating as I understand it.

-W

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,228
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,228
Don,

You don't have to remove the hub to remove the drum. As Greg1.5 said, there are screws in the face of the drum holding it to the hub. Remove them and back off the adjusters if the drum hangs up on the shoes while trying to remove. I have also had to put a big pry bar between the backing plate and the drum and while pulling the pry bar thump the side of the drum with a big No-Bounce hammer. They won't fall off like a car drum will, you have to work them off!

Good luck!

Mike smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
On both of my 48 1.5 tons, you do have to remove the drums. There are no screws on a 48,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,228
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,228
Oops! I thought the AD rears were the same as the TF rears. Guess I was wrong.

Thanks for keeping me straight Scott!

Mike B. smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,549
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,549
You are partially correct Mike. On the '47-'50 1 1/2 & 2 ton trucks, the drum, & hub, are removed together. On the '51, & up 1 1/2, & 2 ton trucks, you do indeed, remove 2 slotted screws, then remove the drum, from the hub.


Spanky Hardy
Collector Of Fine Old G.M. COE Trucks & Antique Holmes Wreckers

1948 Chevrolet 5700 COE Holmes HD W35 Wrecker
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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1950 GMC 250 1-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery

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