The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Steering box question...

Greetings,

OK...this weekend I removed all the brake lines, pitman arm and steering box from my 1964 Chevy C60 in preparation for media blasting the frame. The steering box had the following number cast into the side of the housing: 5890694. Also, the packing nut on the shaft that connects to the steering colunm had the following number: 5673373. One more tidbit...there was a skewed "S" emblem above the first number...which I'm assuming was a logo for Saginaw.

I was hoping to see if anyone has parts information for this steering box; specifically gasket part numbers and perhaps an exploded view. I want to take the box apart, clean and inspect it and put it back together after media blasting and some fresh paint.

If anyone has any info I'd appreciate it greatly!!!

Thanks much, in advance!!

i hope you a pretty good mechanic there burg. gear lash settings are pretty important. if the box is power, all the hydraulic pressure helps to eat the gears at a pretty rapid rate. i don't have the info you need, and i wish i did, but i hve seen the resilt of improper assembly. sudden failure of the gears resulting in a jam.

I can't offer much info on the original steering box,but if you decide to replace it,you might look into a newer box. On my '66 C-60 I used a power steering box from a 1974 C-60. It bolted right up. Be sure to get the hoses,ram,pump,reservoir,and all related brackets from the donor truck.The only problem I ran into was the rod from the spindle to the steering box was an inch and change too long,but that is easy enough to remedy.I didn't mess with it. It drives fine.It just means the truck will turn sharper one way than the other,but both directions are better than original. Besides,you'll probably set the steering stops anyway.You might want to center the steering wheel too,so your turn signals will cancel right. Also,if you want to use the power steering,you'd need to build a bracket to fit the middle of the axle to attach the end of the steering ram to.It's pretty easy to make a block that fits the contour of the axle with a proper sized hole through it for the rod end on the ram to connect to,and use a couple of spring u-bolts to attach it to the axle so as to not weaken it by welding on it.It's definitely worth the swap!
Speed

Forgive my lack of proper terminology on this reply...

The steering box is manual as I do not have power steering on my dump truck. I pulled off the oil fill cap and took a flashlight to look inside and the assembly appears to be a simple "acme" type worm gear on the shaft itself and a quadrant type mechanism with threads cut in the radius. This, in turn, connects to the shaft that the pitmin arm attaches to.

The sterering box appears to be in good shape, but it has probably never been maintained in 40 years, so I merely want to pul it apart, clean the insides, replace the seals and gaskets, media blast and paint it and put it back together. As long as I have some specs to follow for lash settings I am OK with the procedure.

I just need to find a resource for parts and specs...

Thanks...and any resources would be appreciated!!

Burgie,
My experience with steering boxes was with older units than '64, but what the heck...here and a few things I remember. The box is very simple...on mine, the balls, as in bearings, were not captured in a cage..be prepared to grab them as the fall out! When reassembling, use a heavy grease to hold them in place. Adjustment is straight forward. I think the worm is adjusted by removing thin paper shims on the bottom bearing retainer. The sector might be the same situation. Adjust to remove endplay but don't get them tight.

Worm to sector backlash, which gives you your steering play is adjusted with the small adjusting screw/locknut on the cover of the box. This is adjusted with the wheels straight ahead. adjust it to get rid of freeplay...with wheels straight ahead..then turn side to side. You should have no binding at the outer extremes. If you have binding, it's too tight.

Remember, the box has turned a million corners so it won't be factory tight, but should be acceptable. Fill it with 90w and your on your way! Gee, what did I forget?? :confused:

Stuart.

atomarc,

Good advise...thanks for the inputs. Now, do ya have any drawings

Burgie,
I have no drawings. My feeling is that if you are confident enough to consider doing this, then you have all the skills necessary. I don't think there is any part in this box that can be reassembled in the wrong place. Watch as you disassemble it! I'll bet someone on this site DOES have a copy of a page from a repair manual they would love to FAX you if you can't get along without one. Good Luck

Stuart.

I'm looking for an exploded view not so much for the drawing but for the part numbers for gaskets, bearings, seals, etc. After a gazillion turns I'll probably invest in the money to replace them.

Thanks again...

Burgie as an alt whats on the 66 chevy youve got? is it a manual box if so,you got that to fall back on. Im gonna check some old books and get back atcha (seein im laidup w/abusted foot)Regards Steve sr.

Burgie,
I just returned from the shop where I had a look at my 1970's Motors Manual. Granted this is a CAR edition, and not the truck, and not of '64 vintage as is your rig..BUTTTT, the steering boxes pictured certainly aren't the ones I described working on. The ones shown in
the book are called recirculating ball-worm and
nut type. While utilizing the same worm/sector principle, they use a series of balls captured in a ball nut to actuate the sector. Doesn't look anymore complicated, just different. Maybe a picture would be worth at million words!


Stuart.

Steve & Stuart,

Thanks for the responses fellas!!!

The 1966 has what appears to be a "lighter duty" version of what I have on my 1964. Then again, the front axle is 5,000 lbs on the 1966 and 7,000 lbs on the 1964...which I would imagine translates to a heavier steering design as well as GAWR. I agree...a picture is worth a million words. I don't question my mechanical skills :rolleyes: :rolleyes: , however, as an example, it's just nice to know where those little springs are that sometimes fly out of a nook or cranny when you're in the middle of disassembly :p :p :p .

Burgie; Hang in,If I,m not mistaken the ONLY thing that changed on the GVW was the AXLE SIZE/RATINGS i.e. springs, NOT the steering boxes. In other words a C60 is a C60 I have a few Mid 60,s Motors books in the garage it,s just a prob gettin there right now Regards Steve sr.PS I,d be willing to BET that the box in the 66 has the same part# as the 64

I'm a little late with this reply, but just saw this series for the first time. As I remember all those old boxes leaked something awful. I an working on a big truck and was going to put grease instead of oil in the box. I found a reference to Penrite Oil Products somewhere on this site, and then contacted Classic Auto Lubes at WWW.Classicautolubes.com. He recommended an oil they have made specifically for gear boxes, which he claims to have excellent results with. According to the dealer, it is an oil, but will not leak. I ordered enough to fill my steering box. I hope it works. Will let you know later. Allen