The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts '46 Update

Well I got the new clutch in two weeks ago, and put it all back together. Using a sawed off chunk of mop handle for a clutch alignment tool, I lined it all up, and layed on the ground underneath while my little brother sat in the cab we lined it up and slid it in.

I didn't connect the drive shaft because there aren't any brakes.. but I was amxious to watch the doo dad the drive shaft connects to spin when it was in gear, and wanted to test the new clutch, so with her in neutral, I fired up the truck, hit the clutch and put her in first.. it worked!

BUT.. (there's always a BUT, isn't there?) pressing the clutch pedal didnt do a dang thing.. and if you get the RPM's up past about 1500, you can tell theres something definately off balance.

I really should have replaced the pressure plate.. the housing was pretty nasty and rusty.. and even chipping away in places. Since I put the pressure plate back on exactly the same way it came off i'm guessing the bad rust and crud is making it off balance.. since she didn't wobble like that when it was just the flywheel on there.

So I ordered a new pressure plate from Auto Zone for $60 and it outta be here by the first.

In the meantime i've been going out and starting the truck at least once every other day, careful not to rev it too much.. I don't wanna risk bending the crank or anything with that lopsided pressure plate on there.

She fires up every time, and with minimal coaxing. I've discovered three solid pumps on the gas, hit the starter switch and the gas pedal at the same time and she pops off on the first crank.

I, along with everybody else on here, really enjoy hearing of your progress. You are doing a good job! That's a bit of a set back about the pressure plate but you'll get it done soon.

You sound like I would be! I'd be out there just running that engine for the heck of it even if it's not ready to drive yet. That day won't be far off and you'll really enjoy that.

I was wondering if you use the choke to start up? On my 2 ton, full choke provides an instant start. (provided it's run in the last few days and doesn't have a 'dry' carb) Even in warmer weather, when the engine is cool, full choke seems to be the best method for an instant start. As soon as she's running go to half choke and couple of minutes later, after moving off, choke goes off--engine runs with no hesitiation. Just curious.

Cheers, George

George,

Yesterday it was about 30 Deg. F and the choke knob was flush with the dashboard when she popped right off.

She dosent like to idle when she's cold, unless you either give her a little gas or pull the choke out about half way till she warms up a bit.

She idles really low.. so low, in fact, that the Charge/Discharge meter usually sits just below middle way during idle. With a slight increase in RPM, the gauge goes up to where it outta be.

Theres a lever next to the choke lever that acts like a throttle.. when it's pulled out all the way, its the same as having your foot lightly on the gas pedal, so once she's running, I just pull that lever out and let her warm up.

Thaks for the reply Fumblin46.

Yes, those engines idle fairly slow. At least that's what the shop manual says. 450-500rpm.

If they are set too high it's difficult to get a smooth shift, even with double clutching. So that's a thing to consider when you start driving.

The choke also activates the throttle or you can use the the throtte pull cable the way you're doing. Whatever works!

Have fun.

George

Fumbln' good to hear about your progress. Keep at it. Ain't nuthin' wrong with putting on a smile and crankin' up the old truck whenever the mood strikes. We can do that, 'cause they belong to us! No apologies.

George, I'm not crabbin' at you, but you got yer way to crank up yer truck, Fumblin' has his, and I got mine.

Seems these ol' Chevys have their own quirks about startin' and runnin'. If mine sets for two days, all I gotta do is mash the starter. Three days, mash the starter, but if I'm not right behind the son-of-a-buck with a little gas pedal, it'll quit on me. Four days and I gotta either mash the foot feet a couple times or give it the choke before I stomp down on the starter.

Once it warms up off the peg, it starts right smart.

Smooth shiftin' is just a matter of timing and experience, and I will forever be practicin' to get it right. I find it unpredictable when I can count on shifting to a higher gear without so much as a sound out of the gearbox.

I just enjoy drivin' the old truck, no matter what.

Fumblin, Sounds like things are really moving along for you. Congratulations! Hey I saw an ad for a 38 Chevy that turned out to be for a big 46 flatbed the other night and thought of you. It's going to auction in Gurley, NE on Tuesday. Let me know if you have any interest, and I'll pass on the information. I'm headed up that way on Saturday morning, might swing by and take a look.

Eric,

http://groups.msn.com/JedsToyBox/shoebox.msnw?Page=1http://

You found the correct use for the other pull cable throttle latch is exactly what it is . Helps when you want it to charge the battery or build engine heat up quickly on cold day. It's been a long time since I pulled my pressure plate. were there any ears or indents you had to line up on crankshaft end for flywheel plate to seat properly? If you didn't line them up that would throw the whole works out of balance

Hey Glenn- I thought I was a real nerd for goin out there just to fire up my 216 motor and shuttin it off just for kicks. I pull my choke half way out and barely pull the throttle just a bit, it takes me a very brief stomp on the starter button...fires right up. And it's usually followed with a grin on my face.
I did notice that it shifts real easy when it idles nice and low. But I still can't master downshifting. Is it a matter of practicing or are these old granny boxes not meant for downshifting?

You need to learn the fine art of double clutching. A lot of these old girls weren't synchronized, and shifting them, especially downshifting, takes some practice. Shift to neutral, then let up on the clutch and rev the engine at the same time. Then step on the clutch again, and shift to the lower gear. (or try to!!) With enough practice, you'll eventually get the hang of it.

It's a matter of timing matching the rpm. Have fun. When I was learning standard joke was: Maybe you should get a set of rubber gears so they won't scrape

The standard joke we used was "Grind a pound for me while you're at it!!"

We always said "If ya cant findem, grindem"

Once the truck is moving, pushing the clutch pedal is actually not necessary. When I was driving 18-wheelers, all our upshifts were done by simply easing off the throttle, letting the engine slow down, and dropping ther trans into the next higher gear. On downshifts, ease off the power, slide the trans into neutral, and increase the RPM until the next lower gear can be engaged. with a little practice, the only time you'll need the clutch will be at a full stop. We even did it with two transmissions/shifters, shifting with both hands off the steering wheel at times! Fun and games!

A 5-speed main box and a 4-speed Brownie gives 20 forward speeds and 4 reverse gears! Add a 2-speed rear end, and you've got a real handful of gears!
Jerry

I didn't line the flywheel up with anything but the holes that were in so the bolts could go thru.. guess I wasn't aware there was a notch or indent to match on the crankshaft end with the flywheel.

I did run it quite awhile with nothing but the flywheel on it, while I was waiting for the clutch plate to come.. and it ran smooth as silk, with no rattling or wobbling of any kind at any RPM.. so I figured it was OK.

The pressure plate "assembly" was nasty.. I cleaned it up as best I could with gas and a wire brush, but 20 years sitting unprotected had taken it's toll.. chunks of rust were comming off the size of silver dollars (and as thick).

Short of cleaning off the exterior of the plate assembly, I didn't do anything more to the pressure plate.. just slapped it back on.

I figured the "wobbling" was a result of a no longer balanced pressure plate.. since if the flywheel had a balance problem, i'd have expected it to wobble when it was just the flywheel on.

Jed:

My next project is going to be a '41 thru '46 half ton or 3/4 ton.. one Big Bolt is plenty for me and my 33 Acres.. but I would love to score a cheap smaller truck and make it a daily driver.

I know there has gotta be more than one of them around here, but finding the time to go scouting for it has been a problem with all the other projects i've got going on.. and my budget for such a vehicle is.. well.. not alot!

In a perfect world i'd find a '46 1/2 or 3/4 with potential in the $500 range and nurse her back to health the way i'm doing with the 2 ton.. so long as the frame and body is solid.. the rest of the stuff I can work with.

On the 2 ton, I checked out the Jim Carter website, and they've got the stuff to re-do the seats for $150 as somebody mentioned in my seat questions post.. but considering this isn't going to be a show truck, and I have a bad habit of climbing into vehicles with screwdrivers in my back pocket, I don't know if I wanna pay $150 for somthing i'm either going to accidently poke holes in, or get mucky.. so i'll keep my eyes peeled for a donor seat out of something simular.

Still having a heck of a time finding that little "peek" mirror.. option 210 I think it was called. Maybe i'll have another look at the Jim Carter website!

Hey Fumblin,

My Dad always told me that they were all in the same box... Let them find themselves :-)

Jason.