The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Can't Get The Darn Wheel Off

I recently tried to take the front wheel off my 52 6400 model. After heating every lug nut to get them off the wheel would not come off. I was afraid to beat on it because of the horror stories I've heard about split rims. I ended up taking the center cap off, taking the wheel bearing nut off, and removing wheel, brake hub, and all. That was O.K. though because I needed to work on the brakes. A John Deere mower deck idler spring works pretty good as a return spring on the brake pads.

Anyhow, anybody out there got any advice on what to do the next time? I am not against beating on something but the split rims worry me. Am I too paraniod?

That is how I got the rims off of my 2 ton that had been sitting for a long while... torch the rim and then rock it back and forth, it'll break free.

-Mike R.

OK, you got the lug nuts off, right? Now screw them back on a little, just enough to protect the threads, and soak the joint between the wheel and the hub with a good penetrating oil. Then, hit the wheel assembly near the lug studs with a BFH. The only dangerous place would be if you hit the split ring itself with a sledgehammer, or something heavy enough to dislodge the fit between wheel parts. If the rims don't fly apart hitting chuck holes on farm roads, you're not likely to develop enough force with a hammer to displace them. If you calculate the force on a split ring in pounds sometime, the numbers will scare you to death! An 8.25X20 tire is putting approximately 40 TONS of force against the split ring. A little hammering isn't likely to make it come apart!
Jerry

If you are worried about the split rim coming apart, why not just let the air out of the tire??

Don't worry about the heat, it's along way from the tire and tube. The point that is siezed is where the rim and hub meet. Apply your heat to the most center part of the wheel and work your way out towards the lug nuts. After you get your wheel off and cleaned up, repack your wheel bearings. The grease probably got alittle "cooked",
Scott

I agree with AFU45 - take the air out, and you take the risk out. I'm paranoid like you about the split rims. I took the stems out so I could walk away while it deflated. I was sure nothing would happen taking the air out, but why not be careful?

Of course, the downside to this is that you have to inflate the tire later, which definately IS risky, if not done properly. I'm guessing you're putting new shoes on your truck anyway, so you'll have to inflate them SOMETIME . . .

Unless you've got those cool, HUMMER run-flat tires . . .

-Michael

I had a 2001 chev pickup with the same problem, and the old geezer at the tire shop told me to loosen the lugnuts, put a load in the back, and drive it slowly until the rim loosened. Shouldn't need a load with a big truck, but just try loosening the lugnuts a few turns and take it easy, go find a pothole to give her a nudge.

If you deflate the tires, DO NOT reinflate them without breaking the tire down completely! That's the best way I know of to get a rim explosion. As long as it's up to normal inflation pressure, it's highly unlikely you'd dislodge a rim bead. That trick about driving with the lug nuts loosened (slightly) is a good one. We used to break tapered rear axles loose from the hubs that way.
Jerry

That's why I dislike Budd Wheels.I used to change plenty of truck tires,always beat on the inside of the tire or rim with a 12 lbs sledge hammer,or lay on your back and kick it off,always works.Just make sure the axle is on a jack stand.

What ever method you chose please be careful and SAFE. Take the extra time. A rim exploded on my friend back in the 60's and he still has problems eating and talking. This is serious stuff. I know you all know it but its worth repeating. Heck I use to jack a car up and roll under it.....until one fell on my dad and nearly killed him back in 1960! Safety guys, stay around for the family. They will miss you regardless of what they tell you.

i would get me a can of b'laster from thrifty supply in frankfort and soak the thing for a few days. maybe some heat and then the hammer. need some help? sewnd me a private message and i'll give you a call. remember we are just a few miles apart.

Wire brush all over, clean out hub crack with sharp knife to let oil down between wheel and hub. Spray real good a few times in day, come back tommorrow. Use big mall to hit TIRE only, back side if you can. It shakes and vibrates alot, helps break up the rust seal.
I've also used hydraulic jack turned on it's side, turn wheel all the way one way, push on it more with jack and board against wheel, base on frame or whereever you can get good push. If it doesn't pop off right away, leave pressure on it, and try more oil and sledge trick again. Usually pops off then! Just oil it and leave hammer there, hit it when walking by once in awhile!

I had the same problem, and I had to remove the hub and pry it out of the wheel. Once it was off, I cleaned the hub area well. Still, the next time it still wouldn't come off, but I found I could pry between the drum and wheel on the backside with a 3ft. prybar. Las Schwab has lots of tricks for big trucks and tractor tires, I talked to the guy there, but he said it might cost $60+ and he still couldn't guarantee it would come off. They have wheel jacks and stuff that works a lot like a jack turned on its side. Driving with the lugs loose seems like a good way to mar the threads.