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#1346916 02/17/2020 11:31 PM
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 2
J
Moderated
Moderated
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 2
Hello,
My dad a few years back purchased a 51 3800 panel truck and has been looking to soften up the ride a little bit, it almost skips over any bump in the road. I have heard of people removing leaf springs in the leaf pack but am unsure if this is a safe, mechanically acceptable thing to do. If it is possible, how may i go about doing so.
To my knowledge they are the original leaf springs.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Hello, Joshua,

You posted this in the correct forum.

If you do not get a reply within two days, post this again in the General Truck Talk forum, or in the Tons of Fun forum.

Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,502
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,502
Hi Joshua. Welcome to the forum. I'd be more inclined to disassemble the springs, clean them, paint them and use plastic inserts on reassembly. Doing that will give your springs less resistance and more ability to move against each other. While you're at that, I'd suggest replacing the shackles. At this point, your leaves are old and very rusted. They're not going to slide back and forth easily.

I've seen people remove leaf springs in various vehicles for years. Theoretically you can remove all except the leaf with the spring eyes, but your outcome may not be very positive. I should tell you I've seen the aftermath of a broken leaf spring following a few months of driving around on springs altered in this fashion. The situation was instantly dire and there was nothing the driver could have done once it happened.

When I was in high school, my first car was a 1936 Ford. The prior owner left a note to get under the car 4 times a year and soak the springs with a mix of crankcase oil and kerosene to keep it driving smoothly. It wasn't much fun, but I did it and it helped.

But, back to your question you can remove a couple of the shortest springs in the leaf spring pack and it will soften the ride a bit.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 83
D
Vintage Truck & Tractor
Vintage Truck & Tractor
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 83
I did this in a 51 Ford F3. I removed 3 leaves , every other one. I started with the second smallest then 4th , 6th. It lowered it about 1 ". But the ride was a heck of alot better. Still stiff, but tolerable. . New center bolts of course. Better figure on getting NEW shorter U bolts as well.

Last edited by David C.; 02/20/2020 3:40 AM. Reason: Added more information

Current project; 1961 C20, 235 I6
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 678
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 678
I've taken every other leaf out of every truck I've owned. They ride much more civilized. I usually maintain fitment and ride height by adding spacers to replace the missing leaves.


1951 Chevy Panel Truck
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
With your panel truck Id be careful not to remove but rebuild, there is a great spring shop in Modesto btw. This shop rebuilt worn out springs in my 53 3600 which were shot along with all other mount/hardware needing replaced. Most old truck have never had this work done, suspension was the last thing owners kept in good repair. I pulled couple leaves from front of my 46, ended up flat with no arch was fine and I added sway bar and modern shocks and radial tires. Big top heavy panel needs strong springs etc.

Best of luck
Jim

Last edited by JiMerit Boltr#43; 02/20/2020 6:52 PM.

It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed
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S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 328
I built a 51 3105 panel a few years back and powered it with a 455 Buick, T400 trans, Olds rear end, and
ended up removing the stock springs. I used a Chassis Engineering rear spring kit for AD trucks.
But, keep in mind a panel is considerably heavier in the rear and top heavy.
Even with the new springs the truck had more body roll back there than I thought was safe.

The kit came with a shock relocation kit that moved the shocks inboard. Might be good enough for
A pick up, but not a panel.
Solution:
I re attached the Stock shocks (outboard of the frame) by stacking the original spring plates below the kit plates.
Did not need to remove the new shocks since they were well inboard. The addition of additional dampening on the
outboard side of the frame eliminated body roll and gave a nice firm but comfortable ride. A four shock set up!
Also, a rear sway bar might be an additional consideration, but I felt the truck was riding just fine without it......

Those panels are tall and really heavy so your concerns over rear suspension are justified.

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
.....just my two cent.
My 52 panel had front sway bar but it was MUCH better after I added the rear sway bar. (night and day difference)


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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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I'll second that, Alvin!!

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P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
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Posts: 406

On my 1962 one ton panel I removed all the helper springs and three of the seven main springs partly to lower the back of the truck a bit but it also improved the ride.
I still manage to load about 1500 lbs time to time and although the weight lowers the truck a couple of inches it doesn't affect the handling .

John


good planning is no substitute for dumb luck
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Originally Posted by Achipmunk
.....just my two cent.
My 52 panel had front sway bar but it was MUCH better after I added the rear sway bar. (night and day difference)
Standard or modified rear end?

If standard torque-tube rear-end, what is the vendor and part name/number?

Thanks

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Tim, I used the original housing but installed a 59 center section with open drive shaft. (later a ring pinion from Yukon gear)

The sway bar was from CPP part number CP-169 and at that time I paid $186 for it in 2013.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 96
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 96
I just bought the CP-169 torsion kit for my 52 GMC burb. I am using the original gas tank. Does anyone have a pic of this kit installed?



~ Richard
1952 GMC Army Ambulance
"Building the Dream"
The story begins here in the DITY Gallery
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First vehicle-1967 Chevy short bed pickup. Sold when got married frown | 1953 Chevy pickup restored-sold to purchase Toy Hauler trailer | 1964 GMC long bed Pickup 305 big block V/6 bought to restore with son and his 14 yr old son
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J
Moderated
Moderated
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 2
Just to add a little more, I have heard that 3600 springs when it comes to dimensions are the same as 3800 as in they bolt right up.
I do not remember where exactly I read that but if it is the case would for instance a set of new 3600 springs from LMC-Truck soften up the ride while maintaining some level of stability.

Thanks,
Joshua

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269


Moderated by  MNSmith, Rusty Rod 

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