| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,117 Posts1,056,296 Members48,439 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 151 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 151 | I've got a '46 Panel and put a MII frontend under it. Well when I went to hook up the coulmn I found that the splined end of the rack was to close to the upright portion of the crossmember. I've talekd to all the manufacturers and the only thing anyone could come up with was to notch the crossmember. Has anyone one else run into this? If you have how did you fix it? Here are some pics of the problem. Steering Shaft Steering Shaft2 Steering Shaft3 Thanks
David
Just a firefighter,
Cleverly disguised as a responsible adult
'46 1/2 T Panel
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 866 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 866 | I just installed a mustang11 on a 53 frame, it looks exactly like yours. I was thinking the same thing as, not enough space to install the shaft. We are not that far along to install the shaft yet , let me know how you solved the problem | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | Could you cut the splined section off and weld in a piece of pipe for an extention? If the pipe was a snug fit, everything would stay straight.
Just a thought,
Scott | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 66 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 66 | If you do any welding to correct your problem I would suggest that you drill, pin and plug weld as this is not an area for shoddy craftmanship, you do not want that sucker coming apart on you. Most of the time I see the pros notching the crossmembers before they mess with steering componants. Just my thoughts  ......Dale
1939 GMC
1953 HD PANHEAD
1930 Chevy 3 window coupe
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | Who said anything about shoddy work? It can be done correctly, that's why I suggested beefing it up with a pipe sleeve. It would be more secure than the set screws on the joint thats to be installed, Scott | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 66 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 66 | I am sorry if it came across as this method of work being shoddy, what I meant was to have someone with welding experience do this task and as extra strenght drill and pin and then plug weld the pin..........Dale
1939 GMC
1953 HD PANHEAD
1930 Chevy 3 window coupe
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | I agree with your second post about the added security of a pin. You could also grind a flat spot into each of the shafts before adding the sleeve, then press the sleeve into the flat spot before you weld it. That way you would have a positive lock like a spline for added strength.
Just another idea,
Scott | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 96 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 96 | Interesting, I was thinking of using a MII on the next project. Borgeson makes all kinds of couplers, shafts, joints and adapters, you will have to go to the catalog to get the full list. http://www.borgeson.com I would go with pinning, or set screws thinking about fixing or replacing in the future. Please keep us posted. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 37 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 37 | All I did was notch out the frame and weld it closed with a piece of metal, to get a little more clearence. I didn't like that tight clearence either.
"Boop-Boop-a-doop"
| | |
|
|
| |
