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#131377 04/22/2005 3:41 AM
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 375
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 375
Ok; I installed my Carter/Webers over the past couple of weekends. I've finally got it running (somewhat). It's really cold-blooded. It wants to idle very fast when cold and chokes are engaged. It wants to idle too slow if I hit the gas to release the choke. Once everything warms up to operating temperature it seems to idle and accelerate ok.

I think my problem is with the hot water heat. It's not hot when the motor needs it to be hot.

Anyone try to run exhaust heat through the intake? How did you do it? Did you use an EGR valve? Will that work? It seems exhaust would get hot faster than the water. What do you guys/gals think?

Jerry


Jerry Acheson
Indianapolis, IN
57 Chevy 3100
#131378 04/22/2005 11:17 PM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,095
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,095
there have been some threads on the site over the last two months about this subject. i am in the process of installing one of langdons heat plates but hve not finished. the discussion was about water verses exhaust heat. langdons has a tech page about it. ron


Ron, The Computer Greek
I love therefore I am.
1954 3100 Chevy truck
In the Gallery
2017 Buick Encore
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1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
#131379 04/22/2005 11:45 PM
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 375
J
Wrench Fetcher
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J Offline
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Posts: 375
I'm using Tom's setup with water. That's what he recommends. It seems to me that the water doesn't warm fast enough. Why wouldn't an exhaust solution be better?


Jerry Acheson
Indianapolis, IN
57 Chevy 3100
#131380 04/23/2005 12:43 AM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 141
S
Member
Member
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 141
I have 2 of the Langdon carbs, his linkage, and his water manifold heat setup. It was basically a bolt on and use project. I wired both the chokes and they seem to work great. This is installed on a '62 261 with 848 head and Howard's cam in my '52 1/2 ton PU. I had one question before installation and Tom was very helpful.

Good luck with your project...it's worth it!

shoeless

#131381 04/23/2005 2:39 PM
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Posts: 4,095
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
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i hope the exhaust works as well or better. he says that you need a butterfly in the manifold to direct the heat but if i use copper it conduct heat very well, also the one drawback would be fouling from the carbon in the exhaust. i took out the plug in the manifold, the plug is hollow and there was a limited amount after almost a year of use. will post after i get mine finished. ron


Ron, The Computer Greek
I love therefore I am.
1954 3100 Chevy truck
In the Gallery
2017 Buick Encore
See more pix
1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
#131382 04/24/2005 8:03 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9
B
Junior Member
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B Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9
hey guys i'm new to this forum and i am currently trying to hook up the water kit from langdon's onto my offenhauser manifold and today i got it all hooked up but it was leaking out of the manifold, i looked and there apears to be 2 plugs or somthing like that, can't really tell what they are but they are leaking from the bottom of the manifold, anyone know what this is or how to stop it from leaking? thanks

#131383 04/25/2005 11:36 AM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 662
C
Shop Shark
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Posts: 662

#131384 04/28/2005 11:41 AM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 506
5
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 506
The offy 2x1 intakes with the alum plugs at each end on the bottom leak when water heat is used. These manifolds arre intended for exhaust heat. Ed Graham on this site has made some alum plugs to weld in so water heat can be used. Do a search.


"Drugs are money, money is power, power is security." - Kent Heiner
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#131385 04/29/2005 1:42 AM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 158
F
knuckle head
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 158
I put a layer of JB Weld epoxy over the plugs, or you can remove the plugs,apply the epoxy,reinstall plugs and re stake them in place.

#131386 04/30/2005 3:03 PM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,095
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 4,095
jerry, got my heat plate installed yesterday. works great, better throttle response, picked up 200 rpms at idle and better off the line at stop lights. mine is manifold heat. i am amazed at the results. ron. btw the test drive didn't go as well the shift linkages came loose and i drove across town in 2nd gear, fun at stop lights. the clutch let me know by the smell it didn't like the situation. at least i wasn't in fishers visiting my son and had to drive back to marion that way. ron


Ron, The Computer Greek
I love therefore I am.
1954 3100 Chevy truck
In the Gallery
2017 Buick Encore
See more pix
1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
#131387 04/30/2005 3:42 PM
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 375
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 375
Ron,

Tell me more. Did you just run a tube from each header to the manifold heat block? What size tube? What diameter? What material (steel, copper, aluminum, etc.)? Did you put any kind of butterfly on one header to force the heat through the intake? Thanks.

Jerry


Jerry Acheson
Indianapolis, IN
57 Chevy 3100
#131388 04/30/2005 4:25 PM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,095
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,095
i used a plate from langdons. no butterfly, seems the copper conducts the heat just fine more i think than the heat flow. they get hot quick. pictures late. ron


Ron, The Computer Greek
I love therefore I am.
1954 3100 Chevy truck
In the Gallery
2017 Buick Encore
See more pix
1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017

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