The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 34-? door handle ferrules

Does anyone have a good tip on how to secure the door handle ferrules so they stay tight? I have one of the install tools, but doesn't seem to really snug the ferrule to the door very well. I really don't want to remove the interior door panel and latch assembly if all possible. This is on my '37. My passenger side is loose and turning with the handle, I am afraid it's going to start chipping paint.

The tool they sell for that is junk. Do a search for door ferrule. It's been discussed at length before. I don't know of any way to do it well without pulling the interior panel and handle out of the door.

Joe, pulling the door panel may be unavoidable to do it right...... The Filling Station has a tip about using the tool. Nothing really new there but if I remember correctly it takes a couple times around the ferrule to get it tight.

....I have also "heard/read" that someone had a tapered, or maybe it said "cone" that would spread the "funnel" of the ferule and make it tight.

Joe, 6cylindersovertexas, recommended me to use an "O" ring on the ferrule as you push it in, and then one on the inside of the door before tightening it up. I did it and it works OK and certainly saves the paint on the door should the ferrule come loose and spin.
You may come up with your own version of a tool, as your a pretty handy man but maybe this will give you some ideas.

........I bought the tool way back when and it is still laying in my tool box. I think they're about 40 bucks now.

I figured I would have to tear into it more, I will get a few ordered and have at it. Once on the backside of them, maybe I can get a get a better crimp.
Joe

Joe, should you want to use the tool just send me a PM with your address..........Alvin

I am not certain if the 34 ferules are the same as those used on 41 trucks...if not disregard the following.

I recently bought some from one of the vendors (classic Chevy I think). These were not exactly like the originals in that they had a rubber grommet that fit over the metal. This rubber enabled the ferule to fit over the door without scratching paint. I think they worked very well (how often do we say that about reproduction parts?!). I borrowed one of the "much maligned" ferule tools from a friend and had much trepidation in using it as I had never heard much good about the tool. I found that crimping just a little at a time and rotating the ferule tool around 3-4 times making slightly tighter crimps that ultimately snugged the ferule to the door quite well. I suppose the ferule could be installed without removing the door panel, but I don't see how the old one could be removed. With the door panel installed, it would be difficult to observe the amount the ferule is being pinched as one progressively rotates around.

I have a tool I bought that isn't the best so I made one with modifications that is better but not as good as a cone shaped one would be. It is longer overall with a bigger pivot pin to handle more pressure and the tang that crimps the inner lip of the ferrule has a rounded surface. The square crimping surface on the bought one would split the sleeve on the ferrule unless one slowly worked the crimp down to tight. A cone one would have to have a very flat angle to roll the sleeve against the inner door surface so I've been thinking of trying a large diameter ball bearing with a pull shaft. I have three (no kidding) 34 Chevy Masters in the shop right now so I should be able to let you know how the ball bearing crimper works before long---stay tuned.

Sounds good, that is what I had envisioned in my mind, something that would pull on the whole ferrule similar to a pop rivet.

Joe