The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Completed Journals 1953 Chevy 3100 Project

Hi everyone. The motor in my '53 came apart this past December while I was driving home from an event. Turns out it threw the #1 cylinder rod, busted the side out of the block, and locked up the drive train causing me to fish-tail and spin 180* before coming to a stop in the center turn lane.

The engine was a 235 from a 1962 truck. I found 235 from a 1959 car and just had it rebuilt.

Today, I pulled the old engine out of the truck and disassembled it. What me and my friend found - scoring on all of the bearings indicating a lack of oil. What we think happened based on our findings is this: The machinist who rebuilt this motor in 2000 didn't get the oil pump set screw in proper position. Instead of going into the hole in the oil pump housing, he tightened it against the side of the housing. You can see where the oil pump gradually slid down until it disengaged from the distributor thus shutting down oil flow - tried to take a picture but there was too much glare and it didn't show up. I look at the oil pressure gauge periodically but I don't stare at it so I missed seeing it drop.

Here is a picture showing the #3 main bearing area damage.

Additional damage not pictured: The first 3/4 of the cam shaft was broken into 2" - 4" pieces, lifters and pieces of lifters were everywhere including the core support frame and transmission cross member, one pushrod was jammed all the way through one of the lifters.

The head was fine and, since it already had hardened valve seats and is an 848 head, I used it on the replacement block - a complete valve job was done including new springs and guides. With the motor and tranny out I will check the front end and replace king pins, tie rods, bearings, etc. as needed. I have everything to replace the entire brake system including stainless lines (I'll use DOT 5 fluid), and I have four new shocks to install. The bed is out too so getting to the shocks and brake lines is a snap.

Had a "similar" problem not long ago. The PO left the pick up tube off the pump. Yep, it’s the truth!

Works now. Yes, seen a couple like that in my day. Just plain ugly! Good luck moving forward.

When we do our own work, we know it is done right. We all have to learn, no one was born with this knowledge and skills, find someone to help if timid.

Ed

The 292 I'm having built has an exterior belt driven oil pump. They are putting a sensor on it that kills the engine if oil pressure drops below a certain level. It seems to me that this would be a good thing for any engine.

What is wrong with the factory cam. driven oil pump?

Ed

It's a blown 292 (4-71 blower). It has crank fired ignition and no distributor. I believe the advance curve is set with a computer. The external oil pump runs off a belt that is driven by the blower pulley I think. Gaerte Racing Engines say the belt almost never fails but I want it idiot (thats me) proof also with rev limiter.

Sounds interesting, can't wait to see the finished product. I have the external oil filter system, wonder if the kill sensor can be hooked up to that?


Today I went to the local clutch rebuilder and got a new clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and pressure plate. They also turned the flywheel for me. He said the old pressure plate I brought in looked like one from a Jeep or S-10, the one he gave me is correct for a '53 Chevy. The ring gear needs to be replaced but he has to order it - he said it is a size he has never run across before: 13.06" ID and 14.09 OD. Part number 168T. If he can't get it AutoZone has a listing for it.

I also degreased the frame to clean up all of the oil that flew everywhere when to block blew. Looks like the steering box has been leaking for quite awhile, now would be the best time to deal with this issue since the front clip is off and the motor is out of the way.

Today I replaced most of the brake system: rear cylinders, all hoses, and new stainless line kit. Just need to install the new master cylinder and remove the front wheels to swap out the wheel cylinders. Old master cylinder was rough and I couldn't get the cap off. RR cylinder was leaking. All three rubber hoses had significant deterioration. Since this is a new dry system, I plan to use DOT 5 fluid. Also replaced rear shocks. Will do the fronts also.

Had to get the ring gear from Autozone. My machinist will mount it on Monday.

Once you use DOT 5 in "an all new system", I think you are as good as "stuck" with using it forever.

Are all parts new? Including brake lines?

I did the same thing around 18 years ago, and I do not know why.

If you bleed your brakes regularly, you should have no problems with "normal" brake fluid.

I ordered the ring gear specified by the clutch shop from AutoZone - turns out it is the wrong gear. It is a 168 tooth gear, my original is a 139 tooth gear. Apparently the change was made in 1955. Got the correct gear coming from Jim Carter Chevy Parts.

I installed the master cylinder and the last stainless brake lines last night. All that is left of the brake overhaul is the front wheel cylinders and hoses plus inspecting the front brake shoes. Rear shoes were fine.

The 139 tooth ring gear is used with 6v starters.
The 168 tooth ring gear is used with 12v starters.

Makes sense. This truck was converted to 12V but the starting system was not changed.

EDIT: I think the starter was wired to 12V but not sure, its at the alternator/starter shop being serviced right now.

Tonight I pulled the front drums off. Shoes look OK, king pins are shot. Removed the hubs - quick look at the bearings: I think they are OK, will clean them and check for wear. Got the backing plates off so replacing the king pins will be the next part of this project. I suspected they were bad last year and ordered the kit last summer. Now is the time to replace them - lots of room to work with the front clip off.

Got the tracking number for the correct ring gear, it will be here Monday. Motor mounts and a few other small stuff (mostly seals and related items for the brake and clutch pedals) arrived today.

Today I got the king pins out. The left king pin hole in the axle is wallowed out but the right is OK. I had purchased a complete standard size king pin set last spring from Jim Carter Chevy Parts and I'm not sure they will let me exchange it for the .010 over kit since it has been so long. I went ahead and dropped the axle to take to the machinist - it will have to be bored anyway - maybe he can sleeve it if the parts place won't do an exchange.

Cleaned the hubs and bearings. The bearings, races, and rear seals are fine - I'm happy because a complete new set is over $200.00.

Not too much progress in the last week. The machinist didn't get to the axle until today and I went to help (or get in the way depending on your perspective - he's an old friend). He first tried to bore it with the drill press but the axle is hardened and destroyed the hardened bit he used. Instead we were able to securely mount it on his milling machine and several passes with the adjustable cutter did the trick. On Tuesday he will make a bushing to press in and the set up will be stock diameter when done.

Meanwhile I've done a few nickel and dime things such as clean and paint the hubs and backing plates. Hopefully get some felts and bushings installed on the pedals this weekend.

I got the axle back from the machinist yesterday and installed the spindles/king pins on the work bench before installing the axle. The steering is really tight now: steering wheel turns easily but if you move the spindles by hand you get some resistance. The machinist did a good job with the bushing in the axle - no free play at all on the left side. After installing the axle I was really run down - thought it was the heat but turns out I had a 24 hr virus with fever and everything.

Felt better today and got outside before the heat come on. Installed the back plates, brakes, and hubs. Just need to put on the brake drums and adjust the brakes but that can wait until it cools down this evening - I don't want to push my luck. Might be able to install the engine next weekend.

Congratulations
Nice report
Good luck with kicking the virus

I'm taking the intake/exhaust manifold assembly to the machine shop to be milled to make sure all mating surfaces are level with each other. Ordered the gasket that goes between the intake and exhaust manifolds, also ordered the heat riser spring - mine is missing - and a new carb spacer. Starter has been rebuilt, should be able to get the engine put in within the next week or two.

Also, got a lead on a rust free '54 five window 1/2 ton, no motor or tranny but complete otherwise, for a price that I can't refuse - pending a look-see. I have another tranny including bell housing, fly wheel, and clutch/pressure plate; a motor shouldn't be hard to find. Or, I can put a V-8 in it - I have a Ford 9 inch rear end w/ 371 gears and a T-400 tranny in the garage. Lots of possibilities. If I want to go wild I have a Buick 455 in the garage.

Nickle and dime day: Replaced the floor seals for the park brake, clutch pedal, brake pedal, and accelerator. Also installed a new boot for the floor starter. Got the differential cover off - the gasket was damaged at the top and water had gotten into the differential but everything looks OK with no grinding, everything turns smoothly. I'm letting it drain and dry and will replace the gasket and fill with gear oil later this evening.

Make sure the intake/exhaust manifolds are solidly bolted together with the final gaskets before they are machined. Keep them that way.

Ed

The machinist will reassemble it before machining. I had to take it to him to get the old bolts out.

Bellhousing, inspection covers, and tranny are painted. Yesterday I replaced the shackles and pivot bearings on the front springs. They were worn but the rears look worse - that is a project for another day though.

I'm ready to install the engine but we have a tropical system dropping rain here for the next few days (did I mention that the truck is parked nest door under a tree on a vacant lot?). The engine is primed, I will have to paint it when I pick it up from the shop - I've read the threads about the correct color (if such exists) but this is not a show truck so I went to O'Reilly and bought the gray Ford engine paint - it costs 1/3 the price of a spray can of "correct" original paint from some of the suppliers. After the paint cures for a day or so I will install the bellhousing and clutch - and probably the tranny too and slide the whole assembly in as one piece. The engine is set at TDC right now, I'll prime the oil pump and install the distributor and make sure to line up the timing mark on the fly wheel when I bolt it on before I start to install the clutch. Zinc additive is purchased along with oil and antifreeze. I rebuilt the carburetor last weekend.

You need antifreeze in SE Texas?

Ed

Engine is painted ! After I took these pics, I mounted the bell housing and the flywheel. I'll get the clutch and pressure plate mounted tomorrow and mount the tranny. Might be able to install the engine/tranny assembly tomorrow; Sunday, not for sure.

The engine is now installed. Tomorrow I will connect the drive shaft and the intake/exhaust manifolds. Should be abe to start it tomorrow or Monday. Bad weather coming, may delay the project a few days. Pics added to the Dropbox link in my previous post.

Yes, the frame is kinda rough, this is not a restoration but a refresh - a daily driver if you will.

After weather delays, I finally got the truck started yesterday. Sounds great and runs smooth. I ran it for about 20 minutes to break it in. Now I need to put the front clip back on and hook up the wiring and A/C.

Congratulations

Got the front clip back on today. Tomorrow I'll hook up the wiring and A/C - pulling a vacuum and recharging will be a project for later..

Only problem is this: I had to install a spacer to keep the fan from hitting the crankshaft bolt (we had to modify the way the harmonic balancer mounted after repairing damage caused by someone in the past who tried to weld the balancer to the crankshaft). The fan will hit the radiator. At this point I am simply going to delete the factory fan and install an electric one.

Truck is basically finished. Electric fan installed, wiring hooked up, only thing to do is service the A/C system. I drove it around the block a few times and it ran great. Nice and quiet, steering is tight, brakes are great. I can tell a difference in the front end now that the king pins are replaced.

I've been driving this for two weeks now - runs great. Just replaced the dryer/receiver and charged the A/C this weekend which is nice considering the heat index here is usually over 100.

One follow up to this project: I ended up replacing the distributor with an electronic distributor earlier this year. Thia truck, old motor and new, just does not want to start if left sitting for a month or more. I can polish the points, clean electrical connections, and it still wants to be temperamental. This may have been due to the 12 volt conversion, it may have been burning the points. I replaced the ballast resistor but it didn't fix the problem. Since switching to the electronic distributor I have had zero issues. This same thing happened to my 1974 Ford - it has a ballast wire that is bad. I tied switching to a 12 volt compatible coil but ended up going with an electronic distributor on it too (got a good used one from a friend for cheap) rather than mess with getting under the dash to replace the ballast wire.