The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Steering Column Issue

I decided to shorten my steering column on my 1937 pickup in order to give myself a little more tummy room. Now, I am having an issue with my knees hitting the underside of the steering wheel when pressing in the clutch pedal and brake pedal with my feet.
As they say, "It's always something!"
They also say, "Stupid!"
Of course, it's too late to fix the column and another column and shaft might be difficult to come up with. Has anyone else had this idea and made this mistake? If so, have you been able to come up with a solution to solve the problem? Everything fits nicely and looks great in it's new position, but the "knee issue" is actually making the truck difficult to drive. HELP!

Cut off the bottom half of the steering wheel...
Seriously, is there any way to lower the seat?

Install a GM "no key" tilt steering wheel from a 60's donor. Maybe 70's, THIS TIME, mock it all up using the donor column itself or whatever will simulate the column and it's range of motion. Make it clear your knees and have a good wheel positional attitude that fits you. Use whatever brackets under dash and at floor to mount the column (available aftermarket) that works and attach with ujoints and/or couplings (available aftermarket).
Use only a GM donor. The spline will fit almost any GM steering wheel. The aftermarket columns probably have a funky looking adaptor and horn button. They may only fit "their" steering wheel. You will have a good chance that your 37 wheel will fit a donor. But I'm not sure about that old of a wheel.

Small cabs makes real estate valuable. Bitchen Rides” took extreme measures and lengthened the cab on a FORD PU by 8”-10” to fit a big guy.

Any solution is a HUGE compromise.

Use a smaller diameter steering wheel.
Jerry

Jerry -
I like that idea. Got any idea of what kin of wheel would work?
Thanks!

Virtually any General Motors steering wheel will have the same spline and taper. There's bound to be something that works- - - -maybe a Chevy passenger car wheel from the 1950's before they started going to the angled spokes? A dished wheel would probably defeat the purpose of shortening the worm gear shaft, IMHO.

Just checked- - - - -there are all sorts of original and aftermarket GM steering wheels on Ebay, in several diameters. Don't go too small, as the turning effort on a non-power steering system goes up as the diameter of the wheel goes down! Some of the wheels there are in the 14-16 inch range, which would be smaller than the pickup wheel, but still give you enough leverage to steer fairly well.
Jerry

If you have an 18"............. going to a 16" saves 1" knee room. Be careful, there was a reason the wheels were large diameter. It's called leverage. (if you still have manual steering)

Joe, not sure how you have your steering box hooked up, or is it still original?

The column from a 70's, or maybe its 80's, Chevy van is just the right length for most of us at around 30-31". What I like about it is the fact its still "slim" with no switch on the cloumn. The slim shaft will still give you turn signals and as you mentioned once about an automatic the van steering columnwith selector may be the way to go as it also has tilt.

.....can your current "drop" down on the column be shortened thus raising the column up?

Just some things that may get you where you want to go?

Worked on this issue this afternoon and I think the problem is solved with everyone's suggestions and help!
I ended up cutting the column about 2 - I/2 inches which put the stock steering wheel about 1 - 1/2 inches away from the top of the dash after raising it one inch using a 37 CAR STEERING COLUMN DROP under the dash instead of the TRUCK STEERING COLUMN DROP. The CAR STEERING COLUMN DROP raised the steering wheel/column exactly one inch higher. The wheel allows my knees to function with the clutch and the brake under the steering wheel. Still plenty of room for the hand and fingers to roll past the dash on top, but moved it down in the windshield slightly. It also allowed me to be able to adjust the back of the seat up to the middle notch location, pushing my legs even more UNDER the steering wheel and my butt more in the center of the seat front to back giving me a more comfortable "sit" in the seat with a little more of a natural lean back like one might expect in a vehicle.
Actually very comfortable - more like a newer car style seat.
The 14-16 inch wheel might still be an option, but all seems to well with the stock wheel and doesn't put me in a bind to find a slightly smaller wheel ASAP. A lower seat could be another option, if needed.
Thanks to all for the suggestions and help!
GO STOVEBOLT.COM

I have been tinkering with my seat, I too like the back more towards the center of the adjuster, but like you, that moves you towards the dash even more. I raised the front of the bottom cushion about 3/4" for that leaned back feel, then ended up with the back cushion in the rear most position. My next move is to thin up the rear cushion so I can move it back forward. Just the bottom raised feels much better.

The '42-'46 steering wheels have more offset so you could keep the diameter and still have the wheel 1" or more higher. But, the shaft may be different and the whole horn assembly would need to be added to match the steering wheel base.

Joe -
You may recall sharing the 41-46 steering column info with me. I did build a 41-46 steering column with the recirculating ball bearing at the top and the bottom (probably didn't need it at the bottom, but every little bit helps). It came out nicely and steering on the truck is the best it has ever been - pretty dang nice for a straight axle front end under a truck like ours. Pretty happy with all of it. Like you, I probably need to play with it a little more to get it just right, but pretty happy with the concept. Thanks for your help!