The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop 1954 3600 engine/trans crossmember

I bought the engine and trans crossmembers from ecklers under the impression they would just bolt in. This is not the case. The engine crossmember needs multiple inches cut off each side to fit in the frame rails. The trans crossmember does not need to much but still needs to be cut. Are there engine mounts and trans crossmember that are actually "bolt-in"? thanks for the help

There is a universal tubular Motor and Trans cross member. It has slip in ends which "bolt on" to your frame. The tube ends are cut to suit frame width. The ends are then bolted to the tube. I see that is the one Ecklers sells. The cutting is no big deal is it? Just cut the tube then it all bolts together.
All that can also be welded.
Don't know of any exact fit cross member if that's what you are asking.
Give us some feedback on your problem with this style cross member. I have used it several times.

GM put exact fit crossmembers in when they built the trucks- - - - -a few million of them. They riveted them in, better than bolting!
Jerry

I assume he is putting in a different motor/trans. I assume he has the original XMember that does not work. But you know what "assume" stands for.

I read that if you offset the engine and trans 1" to the passenger side you won't have to move the steering box. Is this true? And you wouldn't happen to know how much to cut off? I just dont want to mess it up and have to buy a new one.

1954 3600: Don't make us guess about all this, what are you doing exactly?

Sorry for not specifying. I'm putting in a 327 and a turbo 350.

GM used three bolt-in cross-members on 1954 3100 Hydra-Matic equipped trucks (and probably on other size trucks with H-M transmissions).

So you have purchased Eckler Xmembers and are you OK with those now? And now you just want to know about exhaust clearance?
Usually a set of Ram Horns will do the trick. You do NOT want to locate the cross members until the motor and trans are in there, mocked up. Firewall clearance, steering clearance, tunnel clearance, fan clearance, pinion angle, exhaust...... are all copacetic.

Corvette Ram Horns are larger diameter passages.

There is chatter about removing the orig Xmember and making frame weak and possible cracks due to proximity to front leaf spring rear hanger. I don't think that is a worry and you are replacing it with a cross member. If you can clear it, leave it. Other suggestions have been to cut it off, leaving some stickout so as to weld a new cross piece designed to clear whatever it has to clear. Don't trap the oil pan or tranny pan. You can decide about that during mockup. But maybe you are doing a IFS/clip and haven't said.

Lots and lots of posts on V8 swaps here. Filter it all and do what makes sense to you.

Here is what I did on a '49 and a '50 3100 (see pic). This gives transmission clearance and a way to remove the transmission when you forget to put the giant snap rings in the right place while your wife was yelling at you because her dog ate my sandwich off of the kitchen table and now got outside and in the road because she felt that she had to yell at me right away.
For the rear transmission mount I used the original bolt-on torque tube crossmember by sliding it to the rear about 4 inches and drilled new holes in the frame.
Aftermarket cross members? We don't need no stinking aftermarket cross members.

Thanks for the help. I’ve been going at it trying to get the crossmembers in first off of just measuring and then putting in the engine and transmission.

I like to help members and learn on here, but when they don't answer my questions it puts me off.

i didn't see your question right away but i did answer it.

Sorry, it thought you were referring to what engine and trans i was using. I must have just missed that part. Yes i purchased the ecklers crossmembers and i'm fine with those. I have headers from a 78 nova but id assume those wouldnt fit. are there headers that do fit? and ill be using stock suspension.

OK good, didn't know if you were now OK with your original post about cutting/bolt on. Seems you are.

There are "block hugger" headers, But Ram Horns are GM block huggers too. Be sure to search on this site (V8 swap), find members and PM them to see if Ram Horns worked....and search the web. Your deal is a common swap. Maybe Carl knows.

Rochester, MN. https://rmn.craigslist.org/pts/d/ram-horn-exhaust-manifolds/6366605391.html

https://rmn.craigslist.org/pts/d/small-block-chevy-rams-horn/6364029551.html

The exhaust/steering gear clearance fix a lot of engine swappers recommend is to use a left exhaust manifold for a 265 engine with the outlet up front. Anything would be better than headers unless you have some stock in a gasket company and/or a lifetime supply of free spark plug wires.
Jerry

Have a small block in my 52 panel with stock suspension. Used the motor mounts from Chassis engineering, which is now closed, and they worked super. For manifolds I used an original set of ram horn headers. You can buy them new but not sure of the cost.
I have read, and somewhere saw the picture, of someone who used the headers off a Chevy 265 V8 engine as the original "downspout" where you hook up the header pipe is offset. A little patience may pay off.

And yes, a bolter reported here some time ago that he actually did offset his steering column about 1 1/2 inches by welding a piece of angle iron onto the chassis and moving the box over. He stated that you did not notice the "offset" inside the truck sitting at the steering wheel. I'm not sure what, if any, major change it did to the geometry of the system but he did it.

.....in the end, you'll end up doing what works for you parts wise, or money wise. Just don't be a penny rich and pound poor!

Agree with other post here, neighbor used the '55-'56 headers in his 51 end of issue. Also have seen the steering box moved outboard a bit for even more room.
Best of luck.