The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Sandblasting

Hey,im new to the truck restoring hobby, and im fxing go to work on my Great Granfathers 1955 Chevrolet first series. Im trying to get a rough estimate on how much money im gonna be putting into this truck, and its obvious this truck is gonna need to be completely sandblasted, how much am i looking at? And how's the best way to do it,a piece at a time or strip it down and do the whole truck? Any info will be much appreciated.

Thanks, Zach Morris

Its gonna be a Money and Time pit......but you have gotta luv old trucks to make it happen...I've been using chemical strippers on the body panels...but you can sandblast the frame.
Also I have lots of brass and steel brushes that I use on the end of a drill...I'v got mine torn into a million pieces...it seems easier that way to me...Good Luck..........

Thanks, What kind of chemical stripper do you use? And what is the process,like I say im new the this whole thing, and this truck has alot of sentimental value to me, it was my great grandfathers, the my grandfathers, and now mine, and im determined to make it happen! Thanks for taking the time to respond!

In Kansas City, I recently had all of the sheet metal for a '66 Chevy K10 blasted and primed for $1,400.00. This included the hood, cab, doors, lwb fleetside bed, tailgate, front fenders, cowl extensions, inner door panels and grill support. I thought this was a great price for the amount of work and the quality of the work performed. It will vary from city-to-city. I hope you are able to find someone in your area. Good luck on your project.

Tony

I use 5F5 chemical striper on all my projects.You can get at any hardware store. I have tried all the "environmentally friendly" and "low oder" products, and they don't work worth a darn. If it's not bad for you, it dosen't work. Protect yourself as the chemical stripers are no joke. I usually scrape lines in the finish before applying the striper, helps it bite in multiple layers if paint.It would be great to send it out if the budget allows.

I agree with 4-5-6 chevy. Without exploding the truck then using chemicials or media blasting you will not get to the areas where rust lives. It's a lot of work but in your case it sounds like a true labor of love. If you decide to use someone to media blast get references from the guy. Heavy handed blasting can do more harm than good.

What about soda blasting i was talking to a guy a couple of days ago, that mentioned soda blasting, he said its productive, but less harmful to thinner,more delicate metal?

SCboy55, since I am close maybe I can give you some info of what I know. I checked with Elite Customs in Spartanburg,just off Hearon Circle, about sand blasting as they do most all of it for a local Mopar Restoration Shop. John told me he charges $75 an hour for Sandblasting, and $150 for Soda blasting. I see his work a lot and he is GOOD. Just about 6 weeks ago my friend brought his chassis off a 1968, borrowed a friends 5 gal pressurized pot,(and my air compressor) and for $30 worth of sand from Metromont Concrete and 3 hours we had the chassis looking real good. Recently I took 2 fenders off my 52 Panel to Gaffney and had Fresh Metal to blast them and he charged me 50 bucks a piece. They were in pretty bad shape and he sprayed some type preservative on them. SOOOOO, I decided to go to Tractor Supply and buy my own 100lbs pressurized sandblaster for $130 and do my own blasting. Just doing my chassis in the next week or two will pay for it. A year ago I had a friend who runs a welding shop blast a chassis from another 37 I'm working on and he charged me $150. The trick is to shop around and ask a lot of questions. Go to some crusie ins and car shows and ask a lot of questions. Then I suggest you let whoever you choose do only a small piece or two to see what kind of work he does. There is a guy just off I-26 around John Dodd road that I hear is the "best" but just kind of cranky and persnickedy. Hmm, sounds like me!!

"according to John"...if you are only wanting to remove paint sodablasting it the way to go. Man, it leaves a nice smooth finish. If you are removing rust then sandblast it. I agree with what he was saying and John also showed me some bodies he has in process at different stages.

Sounds like i need to run by "Johns" place, and talk to him, thanks for all your help.

I own a small refinishing shop that works with firearms, mostly heavy weapons systems hence my forum name "Beltfed". You will notice I don't use the term sandblasting because it is somewhat incorrect. It is media basting. A word of warning...you must use a bit a caution on what type of media one uses as it must fit the application. Case in point is soda blasting. It is a solf media one would use for thin or large flat surfaces that are be prone to "burn through " or warpage. BUT, if you have a work piece that has joints or seams that the media can get trapped in, it may not be your best choice. Why? Soda ash is CAUSTIC, if you don't get it complety removed which is hard to do in seams then problems start. When moisture gets into that seam the soda reacts and next thing you know seams are bleeding rust and you've toasted a great paint job.

Beltfed, glad you mentioned it. I use several different "media's' in my "beading" cabinet. Depends, like you say, on what your doing. Glass, sand, soda,even walnut shells etc. You make a very good point.