The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Brake System Overhaul or Conversion - How to Make it Easy & Cheap??

You can see my main post about the 1966 Superior Bus on a 1966 Chevrolet C-60 chassis we are going to restore, but for now (until restoration and modifications begin) I want to get it running and STOPPING with the brake system it has.

My question is: Since I have 1 and 1/2 days to get the entire brake system in working order, what approach should I take?

Should I get the original equipment aftermarket new from a parts store or rockauto.com?

Or should I go to a junk yard and get used parts from something with an equivalent application and fit?

Or should I get something used from the junk yard that is more modern but a similar replacement that is better?

What will be the best thing to do as far as Easiest given the time frame and the Cheapest, but will work well?

I know I am going to need:

• NEW Steel Brake Lines (bent and cut on-site)
• Brake Booster
• Master Cylinder
• Wheel Cylinders (4....is that correct?)
• Approximately (2) gallons of Brake Fluid

I need to go ahead and start gathering all parts so I'm not scrounging next week.

If the shoes are wet with brake fluid or axle grease, or if they're worn out, you also need to have them relined or replaced.
May also need front hub and or rear axle seals to prevent future leaks, or if damaged at removal, or if removing wheel bearings for cleaning or replacing.

Brakes aren't something to rush, take your time and do it right, even if it means waiting to get good parts.
Sticking with original is probably faster than hunting and scrounging and trying to make something else work, and having to rebuild those brakes.

If not pitted or worn badly you might hone and rebuild your own wheel and master cylinders.

1 1/2 days to get it running and stopping is a pretty ambitious undertaking. The “running” part hopefully will be fairly simple. The “brakes” could very well kick your butt. I know you are going as prepared as you can be, but brakes on the bigger stuff is never easy.🛠

I almost had it runnning the next day we got it with very little tools and no parts. I put oil in the cylinders to lube everything up since it had been sitting, and fouled the plugs out. I think with new plugs and new points & condenser, it would fire up and run. She sputtered a little before so it shouldn't take much.

The brakes.....yeah.....I feel like that will be a hard job (plus I've never worked on old brakes), but I also feel like it is definitely do-able. I thought about trying to prepare as much as I could by getting parts bought and some stuff "done" before I get there so it could be put on. There is a Napa Auto Parts near the farm (probably about 6-8 miles away), but it is small and I don't want to rely on going there 3-4 times for stuff cutting into precious working time.

How do you think the brakes could "kick my butt" ? Maybe I can think about it and prepare a little more! I should have 1-2 people to "help" me too.

Stuck drums. More than one wheel cylinder on each wheel. Shoes worn down to the metal. Any part you thought you needed will be wrong. Some stuff may be made from unabttainium. The bigger stuff is almost always more time consuming. I hope I’m wrong and all goes according to plan. BTW, I had a early 70’s school bus in the late 80’s and everything I touched turned out to be a big ordeal.🛠

Yes, I totally see what you mean and that is usually how it goes. All I can do is prepare as much as I can. I am planning on taking a medium pry bar and a large and small ball peen hammer. I'm also gonna take a brass sledge hammer. Going to try and take an air compressor and can take an air chisel if needed. That should get the drums loose.

How many wheel cylinders do I need to buy??

I'm gonna try and source locally some re-lined shoes to get before I go so I don't have to order aftermarket ones at $70 each.

What do you think I would buy that would be wrong as long as I buy stuff for a 1966 C-60 ??

What is unabttainium ? Just a saying for tough to work on stuff?

my 58 Viking 60 has 4 wheel cylinders in the rear, 2 in front. for the rear, there were 2 different styles. I would not want to order parts without pulling it apart and knowing exactly what I need.

....NAPA may be the best source for the parts but do not rule out Rock Auto. I've saved many dollars there.

This is my personal opinion from my own experience and some of my friends.
Get the engine running first. The biggest let down is to spend a pocket full of money on brakes only later to find major engine problems for it to be drivable....not just running. Then you have money tired up in the brakes that should have went into the engine first and the worst feeling is after one sits for sometime and the brake pedal goes to the floor when you get back in it later. Your going to do both but I prefer doing it a little different than most.
Like I said, my personal opinion.

Don't be to hard on yourself either. Rome was not built in one day...or day and half. Of course you and I were not in charge of that job!!

You may have trouble finding just what you need in th parts book, but with part in hand to measure and compare may not be any trouble.
Part of dealing with old and now odd stuff. May not have been any trouble years ago, and might not be now, but it will take time.

Don’t forget the rubber brake lines on your shopping list.

Slang for un-obtain-able, or non existent. Saying that a part is made out of unobtanuim means that it may be next to impossible for you to find one.
Hope you don't run into that.

I totally understand what you're saying I just want to take with me everything I can to be as prepared as possible. You never know....might get her running easily and have time to tackle brakes.....might not. If I do, I want to have parts there to be able to do something. This place is in the middle of nowhere and nothing can be gotten easily. And tools.......I will be almost 3 hours from home so yes I want to take as much with me so I will have it just in case. It is kind of like going on a vacation to work on a project. I'm getting excited!

What would I need for the rubber/flex brake lines? I am assuming these are from the hard line to the wheels? Could I just use regular rubber hose with clamps and barbed fittings so it is a good "get-by" and wouldn't have to necessarily be a correct fitting part to worry about getting?

Please don't go the "get by route" on the rubber brake lines. Please!

The rubber brake lines are fairly generic and can be found in different lengths. I know you want to get this rig rolling but we also want you to be here to share your experience in years to come. I would think NAPA could help out here as they usually have better guys at the counter. If no one at the counter seems to know his stuff, please ask to speak to the commercial guy who is usually towards the back.....he'll take care of you and send you with the correct hoses.

Right, brakes aren't a place to cut any corners.

You likely only have 3 rubber lines, one at each front wheel to frame, and one at rear axle to frame.
Try to look up replacements by application, and be prepared to remove originals and take them in to match up.

You can have aftermarket lines made to suit if not available off the shelf, but not many shops have the equipment to do it and test them.
It's been a long time that I had some made, perhaps someone here has a good current source.

Sounds good to me!! I also have thought about calling parts stores in advance to have stuff or try to have it ready if I need it in a pinch. Just sucks cause I'll be there for a week and not sure when we will go back until next thanksgiving.

After a little research it looks like the school bus cowl & chassis models were labeled as a B-series. Mine would therefore be a B-60, not a C-60 and not an S-60.

Please correct me if I am wrong. I think this will help me more with finding parts and other research.

Are you 100% sure the bus has hydraulic brakes? If so then I'm sure it has a Hydrovac booster.

Tools/Things you might need...

Double Flair Tool for making new brake lines.

Tubing Bender.

Truck Brake Spring Pliers (for removing and installing the shoe return springs).

10 ton Jack (two would be better).

BIG HD Jack Stands.

Planks to put under the Jack Stands.

Wheel Bearing Grease to repack the bearings while they are out.

White Lithium Lube to use on the brake shoe/backing plate contact areas.

A can of Kroil or PB Blaster to spray on the lug nuts.

Truck X type lug wrench or 3/4" drive socket set with 4' cheater pipe.

Plastic to lay on if the grounds wet under the bus.

Light of some sort.

Case of brake cleaner, parts brush and a pan to wash parts in.

Chisels and punches as small as you have to the biggest.

8lb sledge hammer, 2lb ball peen.

Pry Bars (the more the merrier). Big tunneling/digging bar if you have one (I've used the tamping end like a hammer to drive drums off resting it on top of the leaf springs).

(2) Big C Clamps...you never know what you might need to keep from moving.

A full tool box with all the normal small tools, sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, hacksaw etc.

Safety Glasses and face shield to keep the junk out of your face while beating on things.

Rags, hand cleaner.

EZ UP tent to keep you dryer if it's raining...

Sounds like FUN!

Mike B

I am thinking of same on a 48 2 ton. Nobody wants to pay my asking price, so I'll fix it and use it. I want to upgrade to a dual line power master cylinder, retaining the stock brakes for now. This will necessitate re plumbing the lines, as well as re engineering away from the hydrovac unit. The obstacle is what master to get, which would be a 1 1/4" bore. I did this on a 51 half ton and I would like to use a similar adapter bracket. I will retain the 4 speed as I did in the half ton. My question, therefore, is what master cylinder to order?

I went to my local NAPA and flipped pages in their book looking at photos until I came across the one that worked for me.

I got more pictures! Check out the main thread in the big bolts forum to see them.....page 5. Hopefully they will help decide which brakes I have unless there still was an option with the axles I have