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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
Hello Fellow Bolters,
It's been 8 months since I've been on.
I was called to Springfield, Mo. eight months ago for business and just got back.
Wasn't able to start work on my wifes fathers truck until I was sure I could get a title for it.
Wow! The hoops you have to go through to get a clear title on a vehicle that has never been titled or registered is overwhelming.
That is the only thing I have done in the last eight months.
Certified Vin inspections, CSP Vin applications, registered letters, Proof on ownership after original owner is deceased, inheritance verification, and on and on and on.
I guess every state is different in how they handle things. Colorado is brutal!
Anyway, I should have a clear title within a few weeks.
They were trying to steer me into a re-builders title, but I wanted a clear title before I started investing my time and money into the truck.
I got back to Colorado last week and once I realized that I was going to FINALLY get a clear title, I started immediately to disassemble the cab and the body parts to get them into my shop so I could begin the body working in my shop before the snow starts flying here.
Wow! I don't know whether the heating torch or the side grinder was my best friend.
Now I finally understand why you guys call this the stovebolters. I hadn't a clue that these old vehicles were put together with stove bolts, Square head bolts, slotted screwdriver bolts, etc.
What a pain!!!!!!
Most bolts came off OK after heating them with a torch, but some I had to grind off with the side grinder.
I have a few battle scars from kick back of the side grinder. Ouch! But at the end of the day yesterday, I got everything down to the frame and the body parts in my shop for the winter.
I dug through all of my box's last night and found my hammer and dollies and slap files to begin body working. Can't wait to get started.
The goal is to get all of my bodywork done this winter while there is five foot of snow on the ground outside. Hibernate with my 1929. Then start on mechanical after the thaw next spring.
Since I'm on SS now, and semi retired, I will have more time.
Back in the 70's, I did body work and painting, (primarily on fixing dents on damaged vehicles) I will need advice from YOU professionals on proper priming procedures when I'm bringing everything down to bare metal. From the Youtube videos I have been watching, it appears as though things have changed since the 70's and I want to get it right the first time.
I hope you don't get tired of my questions. I'll have a lot.
This is my first rebuild/restore.
Chow for now,
Dave


Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
The front six lug wheels came off very easy. The rear 10 lug wheels won't come off. I suspect that it is frozen on to the hub.
Can someone tell me a good rust busting lubricant that I can spray on to break the wheels off. Or should I heat around it with a torch.

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
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G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Asking about penetrating oil is about like discussing religion or politics.. something to avoid..
But you may want to try Kroil, PB blaster, or CRC Knock'er loose...

If you heat a wheel it's wise to remove the tire first, or ensure there is a large hole in them.
Research "tire pyrolysis explosion".
https://www.labour.gov.on.ca/english/hs/pubs/alerts/a34.php


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Feb 2016
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Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
Tires are rotten and falling apart. Thats why I want to get them off. Got to go find some used rollers just to move the frame in and out of the shop.
Why is penetrating oil something to avoid discussing? Everyone has a different opinion?
Someone told me the other day that water is the best rust buster on the market. What?

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,441
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,441
The penetrating oil issue has been completely beat to death many times. Do a site search for some spirited reading. Just use your favorite and it will suit your needs.🛠


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,990
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,990
Originally Posted by Dinodave
Why is penetrating oil something to avoid discussing? Everyone has a different opinion?

Yep! Everybody has their favorite. As you mentioned, some even say to use water, as that's what caused the rust in the first place.
There are many good ones out there.


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

Life is short--eat dessert first!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
I prefer Kroil ...................but others can work. Some even swear by Coke!


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
It's the real thing! Coke is!

Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
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Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
Now I'm telling my age. Hah

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
I use kroil, coke is best used if subject can be soaked in coke-cylinders, etc. Modern Metal Rescue in gallon cans at Home Depot works well, needs to be warm.

Dave, went to Pueblo a while back, didn't know about you, or I would have swung by your place. Sorry

Ed

Last edited by EdPruss; 09/20/2017 2:32 AM.

'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
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Shop Shark
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 73
I'm about an hour and a half from Pueblo. Up in the mountains above Colorado Springs.


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