The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Rustoleum Paint Job.

OK guys,my rattle can satin black paint job is not standing the test of time (no surprises there),add to the fact my truck is my daily driver,rain,hail or shine.(and salt)

I've heard good things about Rustoleum products and wanted your input/opinions.

My finances simply wont allow a 'proper' shop paint job right now and was considering using this to slay the rapidly increasing 'patina'.

I'm still undecided whether to spray,brush or roll with rolling being the most practical for me,have any of you done this and if so what was the o/a finish like?

I realise it won't win any prizes but is the finish pleasing to the eye,i.e. no striping,ripples etc,does it flow out to a reasonably smooth presentable finish?

What's your take on this?

Thanks in advance.

I would use a spray gun it would take quite a few rattle cans to do the truck making it too expensive.rustoleum or tremclad look okay if done right the only problem I have had in the past was it takes a long time to dry so you need a dust free bug free area to do the job

You can't achieve your goal of "no striping, ripples, runs, etc." with a brush or roller.
Yes, Rustoleum drys very slowly as stated above, AND you can still scratch it with your fingernail a week later.
20 cans rattle cans @ $6.95 = $140. A quart of PPG Concept $139. Then there is always the discount autobody chains with the $399 specials (at least they don't have brush marks).

There is another option, since you are not trying to match a specific automotive color.
Farm tractor paint. Not being funny.
Really good paint, high gloss, easy to shoot. Add the hardner and it drys quickly and weathers well. It actually goes on quite well with a brush but I couldn't bring my self to do that on a truck.
There are lots of colors. I always use Tallmans AG Specialty paint (made by Van Sickle) $60 a gallon
On line through All states AG parts.

Tractor paint is great. As Jim said be sure to add the hardener. If you forget, it will easily scratch for a month.🛠

Just to be clear, I am talking about the Alkyd enamels,not Acrylic.

I have successfully used the tractor store hardener with local hardware store version of Rustoleum. They will often computer match and custom mix colors.

Yes,to the hardener and acetone as reducer will speed up dry time.
Apply enough to cut and buff.

Here is the paint formula I used on my truck. The Blue can to the right is optional.
Dan

Dan
Just curious, but can you share what the mix ratio for each product.

The Blue can product probably varies with each user, but my wild guess is more than one can is obligatory?

John, I used it on my '38. I rolled the body and sprayed the fenders.
I diluted it 50% with acetone so it went on very thin. I wet sanded after each coat with 24 dry time using 400 grit paper. It took 4 coats minimum, some areas took 5.
After 5 years being parked under a carport, it's starting to lose it's shine. I purposely haven't polished or waxed it because i want it to get an aged look.
Take a look at my photos below.
click

Haha,I clicked on your link and my eye was drawn to the blue tin on the left.
I'm not sure I'd want to confuse the two,my libation of choice is usually bottled so I should be OK.

I wasn't planning on the aerosol option (too much cost and poorer coverage) and would most likely need to use a hardener to speed up drying time,being in Scotland I can't rely on good consistent warm air temperatures at this time of year.

I also can't afford too much down time either as it's my daily.

This is mostly a stop gap measure and was kind of hoping I could knock this on the head over a weekend.

I sure can't make it look any worse than it does at the moment!

Thanks Wayne,I was opting for a semi matt/satin finish so a gloss finish isn't required.
My main concern is to stop any further deterioration of the bodywork.
I've added more patina in the last three years than the truck had gained in its previous 64 years!

I've got a brushed-on Rustoleum paint job with fifteen years of genuine bird- and tree-poop patina. It looks awful, but held up to the elements.

Jock, I have not used the tractor paint...yet, but think its a good option in your situation. I'm working on a "driver" coupe now and I'm thinking tractor paint or the Macco route. I'll let someone else paint it their favorite color when I'm gone!

I'm still contemplating going the Rustoleum route on the outside of my truck...although I am going down to bare metal and epoxy first.

This guy mixed gloss with flat and sprayed and came up with the sheen I am looking for... as well as the color I want:

Rustloeum Paint job follow up (HAMB)

The brown he came up with is awesome, and my PPG/Nason paint guy wants to charge me a fortune to match it. I want to lay down a really dark, warm Brown with a lot of red in it.

That look great,even if it is on a F*rd.

Thanks for your input Dave.

i painted a truck red with vansickle tractor paint i baked the S*** out of it then sprayed laquer clear over it that was 5 years ago and it still looks sweet the whole job cost me 175 bucks

BTW NOT THAT THATS THE WORK I DO LOL