The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Starter linkage problem

While attempting to start my 53 with a recharged battery, I was getting no response. I pulled off the old starter switch and the copper contact looked pretty worn out so I replaced with a new one. Again, no response. A friend suggested putting a bottle cap on the end of the switch button and it started. At first I thought it was just dumb luck, but every time I tried it with the temporary cap it started, and without it nothing. Any ideas why this is happening? I'm thinking that the lever on the linkage that make contact with the switch might be slightly worn. Any ideas? Thanks, Steve

Check all of the ends of all of the rods of the Rube Goldberg apparatus, which it this stomp starter design, for excessive wear and either find a better one or weld up and grind the ends until the slop is taken out.

Carl, you are right about it being a Rube Goldberg. I like your ideas, but I don't have a welding setup and another one might be just as bad. Maybe I can hear some more ideas. I'm sure other people have had this experience. I might run out of bottle caps lol. Steve

Rebuilt the starter on my 52 and...have the same problem. So I looked at the linkage as 52Carl suggested. Loose and worn at several points. Welder will get warmed up. Yep a bottle cap worked for me as well. Looking at the linkage, more welding and grinding to fix than I want to do. So I will just "reface" the arm that pushes the "button". Removing the starter is easy. Pulling the "button/switch" is 2 screws. Zap a bump with the wire welder is not too bad. Adjusting the "bump" if the starter engages before the bendix drive is in the teeth of the flywheel is my only concern. That bottle cap is not very thick so not much will be needed. With out the welder, I might be tempted to use JB Weld to build p the face of the arm on the starter. Not a lot of force and no side loads to break it off. That might just work.

Steve, I like the idea of using JB weld. Let me know if you try it and it works. Like you said, a bottle cap is not very thick. You can PM if you like. Steve

I've got a bottle cap on mine that's been there for about four years

JB Weld the bottle cap in place?🛠

Just went through same no start problem re stomp starter. Found a spare that had a U shaped band of metal wrapped around the lever that contacts the switch. Thus when you step on the pedal now the lever gets pushed down about 1/4" more making much better contact. This thing looks like a shade tree fix but really works.
Good luck

Yep - I have cut a small (1") piece of garden hose; cut it open, put it over the lever. It often gives a little longer life to a foot-starter button (the copper-brass "lead" on the starter housing has been worn down).

When I bought my Yard Dog it had a piece of metal about 4" long by 2" wide by 3/16 thick laying on the starter between the button and the mechanism. Worked like a champ.

Wow, yous guys are great! Every idea sounds like it will work. I can always count on creative answers to this kind of question, like fixin' a Model T with balin' wire lol. Steve

Adjust the pedal, reset the jam nut

Gus, I'm not clear what this means, can you explain it so a rookie like me understands? Thanks, Steve

On most of the starter switches the button that the lever pushes on is adjustable.
You can rotate it in and out.
If yours will turn back it out a turn or two.
If it wants to turn but stops add just a little pressure because it will click as it's turned.
Tom

The pedal is screwed into a bar that is attached to the bell housing.

You can adjust it by backing it out or turing it in

Mine had a jam nut on it

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