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having trouble adjusting the neutral safety switch on my lokar shifter. called lokar and remounted the shifter like they said but now the neutral safety switch is driving me crazier than I already am. I can adjust it so there is no current flow in park and neutral but there is also current flow in Drive . Not good. I took the 84 half ton IFS out and went with the Danforth setup to avoid excess front tire wear. This involved removing the shifter on which the NSS worked properly. Ive gone thru the lokar instructions a half dozen times with no luck. Looking for suggestions before I go completely insane. Might have to call Lokar one more time.








Weeds

Don't you want there to be current in Park and in Neutral, and no current in any other gear?
Does this switch have the dual-purpose feature of being able to be wired as either a momentary ON, or a momentary OFF switch?
It would have three terminals if this is the case, and you can move one of the wires to another terminal to make it how you need it (hopefully the terminals are marked).
Carl

Other than a lot of hype and an outrageous price tag, what does Lokar actually have going for the brand? Getting a shifter safety switch to work ought to be a no-brainer if it's designed right. I've never had a problem fabricating working safety switches from simple hardware store items like a flat washer, a piece of angle iron, and a micro switch, all without spending an arm and a leg in the process.
Jerry

These are touchy switches to adjust. Mine is the same way, you need to get it just so or it will start in gear. Are you using the setup tool to set it? Seems mine is right on the edge of not starting in park or neutral when set correctly. Be sure the bolts are snugged up the hold the shifter tight side to side, any excess play throws the adjustments off.

Joe

You guys are making my day here. I was getting ready to spring for the Lokar setup when I decided to look into fabricating my own with Heim joints, 5/16" steel round stock, a chunk of 3/8" thick aluminum carved out to be the rotor to activate the micro switch, and a Bosch-type relay. It works like a champ! Hotrod found the electrical components online for me, and led me in the right direction about the rotor thing. (All without calling me one bad name that did not apply to me. )
Carl

Carl, Joe and Jerry, thanks for the replies. Jerry would you describe your setup for me as you did for Carl? Thanks in advance,



Weeds

Just gotta swing at that slow pitch- - - - - -Carl, so many DO apply, there's no need to make up any!

Now- - - - -Weeds, if you will PM me an email address, I'll be glad to send you a sketch of the switch I've built. It involves using a big flat washer with some notches filed in it to operate the microswitch, bolted to a piece of angle iron on the transmission pan rail, and a piece of linkage fabricated from the shift lever on the side of the trans to the washer. Then it's just a matter of mounting the switch so the roller drops into one notch for Neutral and another for Park. If you're using a heavy current draw starter solenoid like the one on a Chevy small block, use the microswitch to trigger a 60 amp Bosch relay so you don't damage the microswitch from overcurrent.
Jerry