The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Omg I feel stupid. Dual wheel removal 1958 Viking 60

Ok I officially feel dumb , but I don't want to continue without some advise. I'm going though my 58 Viking 60 grain truck trying to get brakes. The front check when fine. Bearings good wheel cylinders try plenty of brake pad. Go to sismont dully wheels...( never owned a dually). Took off lug nuts 6 of them on this axle, ant thought the inner wheel would just come off easy as I thought lugs held both bud type wheels onto hub. But nooooo. Stuck on. The ends of wheel studs on rear have a square end on them. Do I have to take off the studs or is the wheel just wedged un tight. I tried using a lever against frame to tire with no luck. These wheels were just installed on truck. 21.5 s 8 inch a couple months ago. Help or suggestions please ,,,, no laughing lol

They are stuck. Happens all the time. Just have to get aggressive with a bar and BFH.

No! Step away from the BFH.
Budd wheels (which I'd expect on that model) use inner and outer nuts.
Usually 1.5" socket for the outer lug nuts and 13/16" square for the inner lug nuts.

If you've removed some wheels you've probably figured out they are left hand thread on the left side of the vehicle.

I stand corrected.

Yep, if the square shank of the inner nut has an "L" stamped on it, it turns clockwise to loosen. LOTS of torque, at least 150-200 FT/LBS will be required.

Thanks guys. Now let me point out that I
The wheel studs in rear on duals do have a square end on the stud. Am I understanding that this whole stud turns out to get inside dual off. I looked at stud end at the inner wheel opening at it is cone shaped with the six lug holes centered on each stud at brake drum There is no second lug nut btwn the two bud style wheels. What am I missing? Thanks for all the input. Also. I read in the shop manual that the back drums are bolted on?????

Have a look at this Budd lugnut and stud diagram
http://www.autoamenity.com/images/Stud-Pilot-System.jpg

The "second lug" is the stud looking part with square end on it.

To remove dual wheels with this mounting system first remove the big nut looking lug nuts, then outer wheel falls off. Lastly remove the stud looking inner lug nuts with square heads, and inner wheel falls off.

Thanks Grig Now to fined a square impact socket. Lol. This is quite an adventure Hoping the tire shop guy on service truck didn't torque them down to the point he did the outer nuts. Btwn I've had a heck of a time finding bleeder valves that are the same thread to end of seat distance. Ordered from three places. None seat out properly. Wondering if over tightening them have ruined my rear brake wheel cylinders

If the bleeders are stuck in, GENTLE heat will frequently ease their removal.

Ed

Oh I got them out but are ant ing to replace then with a nipple style replacement so I can back bleed or vacuum bleed brakes. The originals have a bleed screw in end of bleeder The ones I keep getting from suppliers have different distance from end of Thea's to bleeder hole and the seat thus not stoping fluid flow even when tightened down

txpete, you gotta stop using auto-correct! What's an "ant ing" and a "Thea's"? Proof read before you hit submit please, some may be able to figure out what you are asking but us challenged folks are having a hard time keeping up.

This socket combines the 1 1/2" outer nut and the square hole for the inner nut in one tool. I use one frequently.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-4121C-Drive-Combination-Socket/dp/B000ROFZ6S

Jerry

Thanks Grigg ordered today. Will my rear drum have bolts holding it on? Can't see anything in the shop manual to say. Not sure if I have a Eaton rear end or not ( way to new to big bolting) my Vin is 6C which I understand from gm historical datA site suggested hear on this forum, means I have a 6500. It's a 174 inch wheelbase. Standard cab. Either a 283 or a 283 super taskmaster. Paint on engine under Grease is Aqua color. The Rearend is vacuum two speed tranny sm420 I tried to back off/loosen upper rear shoes today before vacuum bleeding system in the order shop manual lays out,,,,,burn the adjustment wheel was frozen so I couldn't compress that wheel cylinder as instructed in shop manual,,,,thus some air left in the system. The brakes would pump up when I was done but softened when sitting an hr or two but pump back up. Drove it on our back road and could lock up back left when hydrovac kicked in but was only two inchs off floorboard. I know I got to get in rear hubs to clean and get adjustment working and investigate ahape of components so the tool should get me there next weekend. Thank you

Your vacuum shift rear will be a Corporate GM rear, not an Eaton.

Make sure ALL of your brake shoes are adjusted with heavy drag when turned the tire by hand, if not you will have a low pedal.

Mike B

I took them as "wanting" and "threads", but only he can tell us for sure.

Thanks Mike. Gosh weeding though the historical data on options on these trucks and trying to glean clues from shop manual can be confusing to us less mechanic ly minded folk. Thank you all for taking tome to help all us new To big bolts

Will the above socket on Amazon work for my 53 GMC 6400? Is it also left hand threads on the left side of the truck?

Thanks!

Have a picture of the wheels and lug nuts?
6400 is not a usual GMC model number for 1953 is it?

You could also measure the size of the nut (and square if any) then confirm whatever socket(s) you buy match.

Historical data showed 6400 designation for a 174 inch wheelbase cab chassis combo. I believe,,,, but I've been wrong b4.

Maybe 6400 model for 174" wheelbase on a Chevrolet Advance-Design truck?

The make/model in question is a GMC (probably a 350 series?).

Nonetheless, I think a 1953 Chevrolet 64xx would have had a 161" wheelbase, with 179" being the wheelbase for a 6500??

Well now I feel stupid..

Here is my truck, pretty sure its a 2 Ton (16k GVW)

I thought the chassis designation would be the same as the Chevy?

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums...eb4y.jpg?1487101938008&1487101939154

You don't need a special socket just whatever you already have that fits, or off the shelf that fits.
Judging by what I can see on the front axle/wheels you have 10 lug on 7.25" bolt circle hub centered wheels, not stud centered Budd wheels. I don't expect you have any left hand threads either. If I'm wrong or confused please share more detailed pictures.

Socket might be anything between 15/16 and 1-1/8" depending on what nuts were used, I don't recall off hand the factory hex size on the standard 5/8" fine thread lug nuts.

Grigg

On the right side of the right front framerail, might be stamped in large letters and numbers and MN.

Ed

I was cleaning the rats nests out of my new 58 Viking yesterday, and found what I think is the original lug wrench. It is about 1.5 to 2 feet long. One end has the square nut, the other the 1.5 socket. There is a hole on the shaft on either end that I assume had a removable steel rod. That is missing so far, but I will walk the junkyard looking for a replacement at lunch.

ps, this thread saved me a lot of headache and potential breaking of parts. Thanks all

Dave,

This is the lug wrench handle your looking for...confirm your hole size and the length you want;

https://www.alltiresupply.com/products/ken-tool-truck-wrench-handle

Mike B

Or just get a piece of cold rolled steel of the correct dia.

Ed

My 6400 is a 1958.

turns out mine is a 59 not a 58. I have not found the frame vin number yet, but the door panel matches the title, so I think it is all the same original truck.

Found a heavy duty lug wrench star in my cousins shop last night. Two of the ends have deep square nuts behind the normal socket head. Have not tried yet, but I am guessing that one will fit the inner lugs on my truck.

"If you've removed some wheels you've probably figured out they are left hand thread on the left side of the vehicle."
To be more correct,they SHOULD be Left side=Left hand threads...When I did the brakes on my '51 Fowerd F-5,I discovered whoever did the brakes previously got it all wrong.It was something of a battle finally getting everything apart,getting the brakes done and getting it all back together in the right locations. I was told early on,"Ya can't get it wrong-all the studs and nuts are marked R or L.",but they WEREN'T! (WTH?)
Speed