The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed bedboard sealer

I have read most of the posts on this subject but most seem to be for trucks sitting outside. My 51 is kind of driver quality but it is rarely wet and is parked inside a heated basement. I am installing Classic Parts yellow pine boards but I do not want them black. Should I use marine spar varnish for a long life under these circumstances? How many coats? Really the only time it gets wet is on wash day. I assume I need UV protection even though it is only driven maybe 2-3 times a month. (I enjoy the work on it maybe more than the driving}

Thanks, Howard

You should spend some time here.
http://www.mar-k.com/_assets/images/instructions/suggestionsforfinishingbedwood.pdf

Thanks, I kept getting "server error" on these sites and they would not come up.

Howard

The yellow pine available today is not the yellow pine of the 50s. Old growth yellow pine is very difficult to find now. The difference is the closeness of the annular rings of the old growth pine. This close ring arrangement results in an increase in rot resisting pitch. I wouldn't even try to use clear on the yellow pine available today.

Most Stovebolters and many others use Minwax Brand Helmsman Spar Urethane. Clear. Or Epifanes or good old tung oil. It can not be said too many times that coating all 6 sides of the wood is very important. Some folks thin the first two coats so it soaks in. I don't know if that is good but it sounds good. Pine is the least expensive wood and as Carl says not what it used to be unless you find a good old boy with old trees who has a mill. These guys do exist.

Some time ago this question came up and a couple things were pointed out. First, the "spar" lets the finish breath some without cracking letting in moisture.....secondly, the ends are usually the first to darken up or get black so to remedy this stand the boards up in bucket/pan of the preferred finish and let it stand in it over night...do this for both ends.

Four or five lighter coats worked well for me with a little light steel wool or fine sanding paper worked fine for me..... I used the Minwax mentioned above. It WILL yellow some overtime if you go natural but it doesn't distract from the looks.

Thanks for all your input. If I go clear I will do as you suggest.

Howard

I have always used a good marine Teak oil. Not shinny but looks nice and its easy to maintain. I have always used hard wood so I don't know how it will work with yellow pine. Might darken it up too much for you.