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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,130 Posts1,056,717 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 23 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 23 | Hi Guys: I wonder if there are any products available that I can paint over a partially prepped frame, or products that will prep the frame for good paint adhesion? I don't have the means to do this as big budget as I would like; which includes bead or sand blasting the frame. What I've done so far is pressure wash it several times in painstaking detail with a 2200psi. pressure washer. I've gotten all of the loose dirt off, dirt, oil, and, grease, and have leftover paint and spotty rust throughout the frame. I wonder if there are any products available that I can paint over that stuff, or products that will prep the frame for good paint adhesion? I was looking in the tech articles and found zerorust products; they look pretty good, but I haven't priced them yet. Any tips in this area would be great! | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 | WA 49-38,
I put a braided wire drill brush on my drill and went to town on the engine end of the frame. It worked great for knocking off all of that crud. If you hit the rusty spots with a clean braided bit, it will clean that too.
As far as Zero rust, I have never used it..
I will admit that I have used (Gasp), Rust-o-leum Rusty metal primer...I figure it is cheap and works well. Since I plan on taking my truck down to the frame someday, I don't want to spend the $$ on other more expensive rust stuff.
Since I live in a road salt state, I do know that RustOleum Rusty metal primer along with flat black rust-oleum paint I put on in 1983 is still on the bottom of my dad's steel snowmobile trailer. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 23 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 23 | | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 7 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 7 | I have a 31' Chevy.. you wanna see RUST?, lol I like to sandblast the frame then use the Rustoleum "Rusty Metal Primer" in a rattle-can It has ZINC in it like they use on old military planes (flat green) to prevent corrosion on aluminum.. Well it also works on steel! ZINC created a chemical reaction that prevents oxidation and rust INCREDIBLE! Go read my pages if you like.. I use that stuff all the time.. http://www.ammoman.com/chevy and when ya want to sandblast look me up! http://www.ammoman.com/sandblaster Regards Rob | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 641 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 641 | i used hemerite after blasting its been in the weather a year and still looks good | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 343 Member | | Member Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 343 | The way I am doing it on my truck: - Clean off dirt and grease - Strip any remaining paint (mechanically or chemically) - Clean and degrease again - Prime with Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator - Top coat with Eastwoods Chassis Black
1954 GMC 1/2-ton Longbed 1971 Pontiac LeMans Sport
| | | | | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | I suggest Zero Rust. Get as much of the loose rust off with a wire wheel or brush and then paint. The overall cost is much less than POR and the results are good. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 | I recommend taking the leftover scale and paint off mechanically before priming. You can use a drill with a Scotch Pad (sold at your local hardware or home store) to do the stripping. The same company, 3M, also makes one you can use on an angle grinder (my favorite method).
Then, treat your rust with a phosphoric treatment (Such as Boeshield Rust Free) to retard further corrosion. After that, go ahead and prime your frame.
Rustoleum is OK, but I have been frustrated with the cans gumming up with about 30% of the product left inside. The crucial step is to follow with a primer sealer, then paint. We used the phosphoric treatment with great success in the swimming pool industry on steel products that were continuously immersed in a relatively corrosive pool solution.
Good luck, | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 23 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 23 | thanks for all of the information! That information gives me somewhere to proceed. | | |
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