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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23
W
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23
Hi Guys:
I wonder if there are any products available that I can paint over a partially prepped frame, or products that will prep the frame for good paint adhesion? I don't have the means to do this as big budget as I would like; which includes bead or sand blasting the frame. What I've done so far is pressure wash it several times in painstaking detail with a 2200psi. pressure washer. I've gotten all of the loose dirt off, dirt, oil, and, grease, and have leftover paint and spotty rust throughout the frame. I wonder if there are any products available that I can paint over that stuff, or products that will prep the frame for good paint adhesion? I was looking in the tech articles and found zerorust products; they look pretty good, but I haven't priced them yet. Any tips in this area would be great!

Joined: Dec 2003
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WA 49-38,

I put a braided wire drill brush on my drill and went to town on the engine end of the frame. It worked great for knocking off all of that crud. If you hit the rusty spots with a clean braided bit, it will clean that too.

As far as Zero rust, I have never used it..

I will admit that I have used (Gasp), Rust-o-leum Rusty metal primer...I figure it is cheap and works well. Since I plan on taking my truck down to the frame someday, I don't want to spend the $$ on other more expensive rust stuff.

Since I live in a road salt state, I do know that RustOleum Rusty metal primer along with flat black rust-oleum paint I put on in 1983 is still on the bottom of my dad's steel snowmobile trailer.

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thanx for the tips

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B
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Posts: 7
I have a 31' Chevy.. you wanna see RUST?, lol

I like to sandblast the frame then use the Rustoleum "Rusty Metal Primer" in a rattle-can

It has ZINC in it like they use on old military planes (flat green) to prevent corrosion on aluminum.. Well it also works on steel!

ZINC created a chemical reaction that prevents oxidation and rust INCREDIBLE!

Go read my pages if you like.. I use that stuff all the time..
http://www.ammoman.com/chevy

and when ya want to sandblast look me up!
http://www.ammoman.com/sandblaster

Regards
Rob

Joined: Apr 2005
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i used hemerite after blasting its been in the weather a year and still looks good

Joined: Sep 2003
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Posts: 343
The way I am doing it on my truck:
- Clean off dirt and grease
- Strip any remaining paint (mechanically or chemically)
- Clean and degrease again
- Prime with Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator
- Top coat with Eastwoods Chassis Black


1954 GMC 1/2-ton Longbed
1971 Pontiac LeMans Sport
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I suggest Zero Rust. Get as much of the loose rust off with a wire wheel or brush and then paint. The overall cost is much less than POR and the results are good.

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 355
K
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I recommend taking the leftover scale and paint off mechanically before priming. You can use a drill with a Scotch Pad (sold at your local hardware or home store) to do the stripping. The same company, 3M, also makes one you can use on an angle grinder (my favorite method).

Then, treat your rust with a phosphoric treatment (Such as Boeshield Rust Free) to retard further corrosion. After that, go ahead and prime your frame.

Rustoleum is OK, but I have been frustrated with the cans gumming up with about 30% of the product left inside. The crucial step is to follow with a primer sealer, then paint. We used the phosphoric treatment with great success in the swimming pool industry on steel products that were continuously immersed in a relatively corrosive pool solution.

Good luck,


~ Kimberly
My '54 ... and my '63 and a '59 F100
Joined: Aug 2005
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thanks for all of the information! That information gives me somewhere to proceed.


Moderated by  klhansen 

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