| |
Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for
MORE wrenching? 
Plenty of places to share. | | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
3 members (Guitplayer, CuzzFuzz, 1 invisible),
38
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,018 Posts1,055,259 Members48,417 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 182 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 182 | I need to replace the coil wire inside the armored sheath in the ignition switch assembly from a 1941 Chevy.
I disassembled the switch by prying back the three tabs holding the switch body together. This revealed a bakelite block with the switch contacts on the front and the wire connection and terminal studs on the back.
How do you remove the bakelite block to access the wire connection? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 | The Filling Station sells a rebuild manual that should answer your questions.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I don't have the books handy today but earlier in the week I was looking for info on another ignition related issue. In several of my old books they explained the system you're asking about and how to service it.
Do you have an old Motors Repair manual, or any other old automotive books that tend to cover more than just one manufacturer?
If you can't turn up anything I can try to search again.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 | I had to replace the wire on my truck and as I recall, once you have opened the switch case, the bakelite block just pushes out from the back. The armored cable is just pressed into the back of the switch body and you have to remove that first. Then you can push the bakelite block out from the back where the wire exits. Perhaps a little WD40 will help loosen things up.
Kent | | | | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 182 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 182 | ...once you have opened the switch case, the bakelite block just pushes out from the back. This is in fact correct. There are three divots on the metal housing (that I did not initially notice due to corrosion) to retain the bakelite block. But with some force, I was able to press the bakelite block past the divots without damage. Thanks for the replies. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 122 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 122 | When I repaired mine, I used a Dremmel with a grinding wheel and carefully ground away the divots to get the bakelit block out, then after assembly filled the "slots" with a small amount of J B weld and sanded smooth. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 182 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 182 | That was a good idea. Sounds a lot less risky than forcing the bakelite block out. | | |
|
|
| |
