The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Best way to remove stripped bolts / broken bolts?

'55 Series 2 with a 350 (engine was installed in 1980). I'm going to put in a new exhaust this fall, headers all the way back. I started to tinker with it last week when I had some time and notices ALL the bolts holding the headers on are either stripped or close to it (I'm guessing my FiL tried to remove them a few years ago and stripped them, then just left them). I pulled out my craftsman bolt extractor (sockets) and made solid contact and as I started to turn it sheered the head right off the bolt (I did spray penetrating oil on the bolt for two days before starting this). I'm not going to touch any more of them, but thought I would find out the best way to get the stripped bolts off and, assuming I break another one, the best way to get a broken bolt out. I've been looking at some of the various methods online and a lot of guys swear by the left handed drill bits for the broken bolts.

Hoping some of the stovebolt pros have some tips for me.

Getting damaged header attaching bolts out falls into two basic categories- - - -difficult and impossible. Since you're planning to replace the whole system anyway, take a sawzall to the header tubes, cut them as close to the heads as possible, and remove the heads. Once they're on a workbench, use the sawzall, a torch, a grinder, or other types of cutting tools to remove the bolt heads and the flanges, then use a torch and vise grips to get the bolt stubs out of the heads.

A word to the wise- - - -when you replace the exhaust system, seriously consider what caused all the grief to start with- - - - -headers! Your situation is a silent, eloquent argument for running cast iron exhaust manifolds!
Jerry

I'm betting you don't have a lot of room. Otherwise I'd say try to stand a washer up and weld it to the broken bolt if possible. The heat will help loosen it and then you can twist it out.
I once seen a guy put a nut "over the twisted off bolt" and fill/weld it up and then twisted the broken stud out.

I have also heard some guys say Speed Outs work and I even have a new set of them (Christmas present) but I have not tried them. They screw in backwards hoping to get the stud out.

...or if you have room, you can try drill from a small bit to a little bigger...bigger...bigger, until the "shell" will screw out. But, you have to be dang near perfect with center punching it to do a good job. Then you still may booger up a hole and have to use a heli-coil. Worst scenario would be to pull the head and have a machine shop take them out. Ugh!

I'm just a novice with lots of idea's but maybe the pro's will be by in a little with a simpler solution. I'm waiting to!!

As mentioned, I am sure you have some close places. But over the years, working on old tractors and trucks, I have found that HEAT is your best friend. No amount of snake oil will do the job of a torch and cherry red heat. You may have to heat it up red a few times, but it almost always works.

I agree, heat the heads of the bolts red, let them cool, usually come right out.

When dealing with exhaust, I use heat to try to prevent breaking bolts or studs. If they are already broken, the best way I know to get them out is to plug weld a nut onto the broken stud. The process of welding a nut to the broken bolt usually breaks the rust loose. If it is broken too deep in the hole to weld to, drilling and retapping is usually the only option. If you use a bolt extractor, you risk breaking it off and it will be just as hard as your bits.

I prefer using studs over bolts for any kind of exhaust. That way I can heat the nut and it will come off.

I was watching a big man working on exhaust manifold bolts. He had his big mitts on the wrench and looked to be turning it the wrong way, ever so gingerly. I was about to say something just as he stopped and reversed direction. I told him, "Man that was close. You almost snapped that one before you backed it out."
He just smiled and proceeded to do the very same thing on all of the rest of them. He said that when you carefully tighten them, you can feel them move. Once that happens, they are freed up and most of them will come right out.
I have done mine that way ever since, and if they move when you carefully tighten them, they all come out.
There must be something going on with the changing shape of the fastener when turned in that is opposite from that when turned out.

I usually have this "problem" with thermostat housings.

I usually spray them with wd40 and let it sit for an hour or 2. Then 2 firm hits with a hammer and using a long wrench to loosen them. When you feel the head turning but without the rest of the bolt (I guess I'm not the only one who can feel that?) turn it clockwise a little and then you try to loosen it again. If the head should come of then loosen or break the other bolts so you can lift the top of and use pliers or a waterpump wrench to take the rest of the bolts out. Without the tension it's usually quite easy.

No need for heat!

Heating the bolts red hot and letting them cool, penetrating lube (I like Kroil the best), tap with a hammer.

If you need to drill the bolt out, use reverse drill bits. It will also help them come loose.

Easy outs work well if you can get to the bolt easily as well. Torch is a good idea . gettem red and presto. I would have a good fire extingusher right next to you .maybe get er red hot and if you can put a vice grip on er . Hold the bolt , get some guy's to turn the truck.