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| | | Forums66 Topics128,052 Posts1,055,727 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8 | Ok, so I just got my great-grandfather's 1963 Chevy Pickup from my grandfather. The first thing I want to do to it is give it a new paint job. The truck is Powder Blue with White bumpers and grille. The paint is in pretty bad shape and it is chipping in many places. A couple of spots are starting to rust out (Small spots, no bigger than .5 square inch). Like I said, I really have no clue how to do this, but I want to this myself. I don't have much money to do this so I have to keep it extremly low budget. I don't need an overly nice paint job, just enough to look nice and clean. My first question is: Can I even do the whole paint job by myself? 2. What tools do I need?- I need to know what I have to do to fix the rust and all. 3. If I do it myself, but buy good paint, will it turn out nice? Or will it look like complete crap? Any and all the knowledge/advice you have would be greatly appreciated. Or if you have done this already yourself and you could tell me the stores/brands you used that would also be helpful. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8 | Um, Filler, Primer, Paint...Need Sander, Spray Gun, and what kind of paint do you recommend? | | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 142 Member | | Member Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 142 | Well it is kind of hard to answer your questions because we don't know what your skill level is etc.. . I would grind all the paint off in the rusted out areas and see how bad it is , cut out the thin rusted metal and treat the rusted areas with a phosphoric solution to kill the rust. Then weld in patches and prime. I have made patches and pop riveted them in and covered with bondo when I was younger and on a near zero budget but the right way is to weld them in. I would sand the body down , bondo, filler prime and sand the rough areas. If you have a local cheap painter [like an Earl Scheib in our area ]let them paint it for you .It all depends on how small of a budget and what skills and equipment you have.I have also just fixed the rough areas on a truck then had the local paint store mix me up the closest match to my paint in a spray can so I could just paint those areas until my budget allowed me to paint the whole thing. Anyway hope this helps some! | | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 142 Member | | Member Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 142 | Checkout "homemade paintjob is it possible ?" at the bottom of the Paint and Body shop page for some other cheap hints , also look through the archives. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 641 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 641 | save up your money and get a maaco paint job | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 | I've mentioned this before, but think it is the way to go... Junior College. Find the one in your area that has a paint program. They have all the tools, most of the supplies are there for your use and the teacher can get you started. The only thing you will need to buy is the paint. No better way to learn on the first one. Good luck! | | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 142 Member | | Member Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 142 | Did'nt think of that one , Junior college ! | | | | | Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 210 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 210 | I'd give anything to spend a few days in a GOOD body shop - and I think I do OK painting. Have a few cars under my belt. Experience is everything. If you're handy, you'll get it. If not, leave it to the "pros" or knowledgable friends. Do the parts you feel comfortable with and experiment with the others. Jim | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 662 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 662 | Take your time, accept that it won't be perfect, and be prepared to go back and fix big mistakes and you'll do just fine. http://www.chuckthetruck.homestead.com/page1.html | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 | Trent, You can do it. (Hey, I'm a *girl* and I can do it!)
One book that really helped me (along with a Dad and uncle with great advice), was "How to Build Real Hot Rods" by LeRoi Tex Smith. Copyright on my book is 1988 published by Motorbooks International. Filled with great how-tos and step by steps. Of course, the "How to Rebuild Your Chevy Pickup" book everybody talks about on this site is an absolute MUST (by Tom Brownell, I think . . .)! It is also full of step-by-step info.
Also, buy a cheap starter set of body hammers and dollies (JC Whitney has one for $20 or less). Then, pick up a body panel from the local junkyard and practice pounding out and shaping the metal. Don't get a modern panel, the steel gauge is different, get an old door or fender that's on an old wreck. It should cost you another $20 but you'll get the hang of it without hurting your truck.
Good luck. Kim | | | | | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 65 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 65 | Read up and be safe some paints can kill ya dead without a closed system respirator. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8 | Thanks so much for all of your advice, especially you Kim, this has been very helpful. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 128 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 128 | Hello there your absalute best way to do this is get a job at a body shop this trade is dying to get energetic youth back into it. you might have to start by washing cars but you will be able to watch and ask questions from the pros and hey you will even make money instead of spending it.good luck let me know how you make out.Bent | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8 | Ok, well, if I'm going to do this I figure I should buy a good gun and do it right. Do you have any suggestions on what brand or a certain model spray gun to buy? Also, is there a certain brand of paint I should buy? **I bought the two books you suggested Kim, the "How to Build Real Hot Rods" arrived today and it is great, very helpful. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 | Trent, I'm glad you were able to find them both! I learned so much from each of them . . . K | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 128 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 128 | Hello Trent its Bent gravity feed guns are the way to go sata or devilbiss are two of the good brands but they are expensive.try protec or some off shore brands they will do the the job just as well for what you are doing.you need one with a 1.3-1.5 tip the 1.3 will be a little slower but easy to control with a finer spray pattern as the 1.5 faster and not as much atomization.as for paint brands dupont,ppg,sikkens,basf are in most shops,try going to your local parts supplyer and talk to the body and paint division the can be very helpfull also or just go get that job in the shop if you move here I will hire you get sanding see ya! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 | Don't forget to get yourself an Eastwood catalog http://www.eastwoodco.com/ - you'll get an education about tools AND get to shop . . . | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8 | http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...1&item=4555126203&category=43987 Anything wrong with this? By the way, I couldn't find a tip to buy, it says it has a 1.5mm tip but that you could buy a 1.3mm tip sold separately. Do you know how much a tip would cost? Once again, thanks so much for all your help. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 128 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 128 | Ya thats right but you should be able to order any gun with whatever tip you want just ask and see want happens remember your giving them the money.you dont have to have a 1.3 tip it just might make it a little easier I use a 1.3 on all my fine metalics and pearls a 1.5 with single stage and a 1.4 for clear coat but I could probably do either or with any gun the different tips just make things easier with less chances for redos ooh thats a bad word I hope this isnt to complicated just pull the trigger and watch just behind were your spraying its actually a piece of cake | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8 | I'm about ready to start working on the truck. Thanks for all of your help, but one last question. What brand of paint do you recommend (bc/cc), and where can I purchase this? Do you know any good websites to buy paint from? (Primer too) I would rather go ahead and spend the money needed and get a quality paint. Any suggestions? Thanks, Trent | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 3 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 3 | Trent, Spray guns are not cheap, I bought a gravity feed from Harbor Frieght (it's a purple handle) and its not a top brand, incomparison to my Binks, Sharpe or my Iwata but it will get the job done, without putting a dent in your wallet. Cause you will find out that paint isn't cheap. Just keep in mind that there no mistake that sand paper cant take care of. Take your time use the recommended mixing ratios. PPG, Dupont, Its just a matter of choice. Don't settle for "senthetic enamels" that's what Earl Sheilb and alot of Maaco use and the longevity of a shine will not last, so what you'll spent for materials will out weigh and last those companies paint jobs. Plus the experience that you gain is unmeasurable. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 355 | Trent, I don't know if you want to buy paint from a website for the simple reason that it is a hazardous material (shipping-wise) and VERY heavy. The shipping can be very costly.
Plus, if you buy from a local body shop or supplier, you can get some great advice along with your paint. Just a thought, | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 100 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 100 | Ditto what Kimberly said...
Andy
A man is like an old truck... He will rust out before he wears out...
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 622 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 622 | All the advice above is very good. I got sick of expensive body shops that did crummy work so I learned how to do it myeslf. Ask lots of questions at the auto body supply store and don't be afraid to make mistakes. I made plenty but worked through them. Now I paint a car/truck without much fanfare, and I do all my body/paint work on my front lawn. :•) Check out my gallery to see my truck. It was an old plumbers truck then the guy retired and used it for a fishing truck. He didn't worry to much about denting it and when he needed to tie something down, he just drilled a hole. I guess that in 62 he couldn't see that in 2005 it would be a collectors item. hahahah....
delete my account and pictures
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