The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs 1953 Panel plywood refinish ??

I could not find this topic discussed

Does anyone have any experience with refinishing the existing plywood floor in a 53 panel ? Do and don'ts ?

I know every trucks condition would be different, in my case the wood is tight with the original top ply intact with the exception of a wear spot about a foot square where the top 3 or 4 plys have been worn through. [bummer ]

What would the stain color be if any ? It's a 3800 if that matters

Thanks
Dan

Redoing the plywood is not an easy undertaking. Weeds replaced his on his Suburban but I wouldn't want to tackle that. The plies are so thin that even moderately sanding it down would risk getting into the next ply. I had toyed with the idea of loosening the metal strips and putting thin veneer strips on top of the plywood but under the metal strips. That has its drawbacks too. So I just threw a rubber mat over the whole floor. I don't know what colour it's supposed to be, I have heard black.

My 52panel had not signs of any color. I did rub some preservative on it and then place a thin piece of carpet over it that I bought at lowes. Bottom was very good but the top was worn through right at the back door where deliveries were slide in and out. I'm thinking about troweling a smooth coat of liquid nail over it, sand it a little and do as Leo suggested. Put a thin layer of "something" over it and paint or stain it.
Note: on my 52 the plywood was ONE piece. I was told at the lumber yard I could order one oversize piece to cover it with one piece rather than piecing it.

Let us know what you decide to do...and pictures.

I had though of "skimming" it with something but my thoughts were along the line of a mixture of Elmer's glue and sawdust and lightly sanding that down with a 120 grit . I will try a few things and report back .

When I had the body off I had actually toyed with the idea of unbolting and flipping the whole piece over but space and work involved seemed fathomable even if it did work [ body twisting and other unknowns ].... in hindsight it seems that time would have not mattered as everything this pleasurable [?] takes more than we care to admit... LOL

Dan

I had same issue on my 49 suburban. I used a product by Durham putty that can by bought at lowes/home. It is a powder that mixes wit water to a paste consistency, will spread w a trowel, but as can says is rock hard when dried. It will not look like wood but can be sanded and painted. I put a carpet over rear area after painting it. Hope this helps

My 58 Burb still has the factory mat in the back so the plywood is in pretty good shape.

One of us just needs to bite the bullet and order a new oversize piece of plywood and give us a report on how it goes (cost, ease of installation etc.). This topic comes up periodically, so I know there is interest out there.

Larry , I , and others await your future Tech Tip ... thanks for stepping up ...
Dan

Hi,all. So after registering on this forum in 2011, I,m finally actually working on my '53 suburban. So, has anyone ever replaced the cargo floor in a suburban? From what I've heard, it can't be done because of the way they are put together from the factory. I really want to do this, total resto, and if I leave this croppy wood, I am gonna kick myself when it is done. I have every thing loose, looks like you'd have to spread the walls to get it out in one piece. What about putting slats back in , like a pick-up bed. Any suggestions, much appreciated.

Just posted plywood replacement as a new subject, didn't see this thread. Anyway, I've got mine all loose, but it isn't gonna come out without spreading the backside or cutting the wood. I think planks like a pickup would look nice!

If the panel plywood floor goes in like the suburban plywood goes in, I think that two different techniques could be followed (I have done neither - I have read about them):

Technique 1.
If you want to use one piece of plywood, it is wider than 48". A marine/boat repair shop might be able to come up with marine grade plywood that is wider than 48" - maybe 54" x 96"

If you want to use one piece of plywood, you will have to remove one of the "side rails", by cutting out 20-28 spot wields (someone counted them long ago).

Then the fitted plywood is put in place and the "side rail" would be welded or screwed to the sidewall (into the original position).

Technique 2:
I think that Weeds might have joined two pieces of plywood with some sort of lengthwise joint. I think that his method did not necessitate removing a "side rail"

I think that Weeds posted his technique many years ago?

There is a tech tip on how I replaced the plywood floor in my 49 burb. Look in the "tech tips"

It was a lot of work but the results were worth it.


Weeds

I replaced the floor in my 49 burb. There is a tech tip on how I did it. A lot of work but the result is worth it


Weeds

Just doing exactly this job. I lifted the body off the chassis but because of head room in the garage I couldn't get it high enough to slide the old out.
Instead I chose a line missing all of the fittings and bolt holes and cut in two to then slide out with the body back in situ.
template trial fitting

perfect fit

Instead of maring ply I used Birch ply as it has many more layers of ply than marine and as a result is a lot heavier as long as you waterproof the edges with a 2k wood filler.

varnish undersides ready for install

I have then applied 6 coats of varnish to the underside along with all the usual POR15 paint on the underside of the lips where the floor bolts to.

I am hoping it will last the 60+ years that my original did ;-)

Floor will NOT COME OUT IN ONE PIECE!!!


Weeds

I've just replaced my suburban floor plywood. There should be images in my profile. After much deliberation I had to opt for cutting out and then replacing in two sections as I have no power in my garage to remove spot welds from the side trim and not enough headroom to raise the body high enough to slide the timber out from underneath.

For ply I chose Birch ply as it has almost twice the amount of ply layers than the original and is a much more dense timber (even in todays standards). The birch was 12mm with a more decorative iroko deck slats at 8mm offset over the joint and bonded using marine glues and sealants.

The result I am very pleased with and it isn't going anywhere anytime soon. It weighs quite a lot but weight = strength, no?

I hope this helps.

This method means the job is not as scary as you might think.

Thanks for the report, SSingo

Sounds like your persistence and innovation have paid-off.

Any chance you could post links to a few pictures?

Sure Tim.

60+ years old floor. Still going strong but I thought it was as good a time as any to replace

before

The easiest way to remove was to take a saw. and marking a 90degree half way line I hacked straight through the floor so that I could still piece back together to make a template for the new timber
floor removed

timber bought. 12mm Birch ply for the waterproof layer with 8mm Iroko decking layed on top. The Birch has many more layers of ply than original and tighter grain. As long as you wood filler the edges to water tight them and then varnish the undersides there will be no water ingress.

timber selection

Tools for the job

varnish drying

Ply layed in by dropping the wooden body mounts. This lowers the floor by just enough to squeeze in the ply.

Ply in position

The decked floor resting on top of the edges of the body just for trial looks.
Decking glued ready to fit

ready to fit

Now with the marine caulking between each plank of decking and the surface oiled I am finally ready to fit.

marine decking in a burb

Worth noting, there are several reasons why I chose to do the job with two layers.

1: Iroko is very expensive
2: I could hide some of the floor mount bolts between the layers making a much neater finished product.
3: I can then stagger the joint for extra strength and water tightness.

raw materials infront of my truck

The just got the step notch cover top go in once floor is in position to be colour coded the interior colour.
step notch cover