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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,167 Posts1,057,021 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 6 | Hey folks, just picked me up a nice 1966 Chevy C10 with a straight 6, 4.8L, 292. I'm loving this thing but she needs a lot of TLC.
My main issues to begin with are some surging at low speeds (-30mph) and higher speeds (+55mph). Oil that smells like gas and is thinner in consistency. Smells like unburnt fuel. And what looks like an oil leak under the exhaust manifold.
Could all be related...but not sure yet.
It ain't work if it's fun!
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 Moderator | | Moderator Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 | Welcome Steve, you would be wise to drain all the fluids before you start anything. Clean things out before you replace with new fluids, you may not know how old that stuff is. Nice to have a 292, great truck engine. As you say, they are a lot of work and also a lot of fun. Just don't let the truck get the better of you.
Leo | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Steve, welcome to the Stovebolt. You 60--66 guys even have your own forum as you probably already have found out. Let us know how we can help by posting in the best forum for your problems. Good luck, visit often and keep us posted. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 6 | Well, it looks like I've hit my first mystery of the day. I am trying to remove the head and get to the valves, all the bolts are removed, but the cylinder head will not budge. Do I have to pull the valves before removing the head? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Steve: I would not work that deep without a Repair Manual. If manual says you have done it correctly so far, it means you have to knock on it with a block of wood and a hammer, pry bar it all around. Head is heavy and "melded" maybe.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 6 | I had to take a break, have a beer, and take another look at it. Much to my chagrin, I found the culprit...the bolt for the alternator bracket.
Today I'll be ordering a repair manual and digging even deeper into this thing. I'm having a blast and it's a great "work day stress" relieving "hobby." | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | Welcome to the Stovebolt. How's the top-end inspection going? Oil that smells of fuel is due, in part, to fuel/air mix getting past the rings & into the crankcase. A compression test on each cylinder will let you know, if you have sticky valves or compromised rings or both. Good luck with your project.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 1,002 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 1,002 | Oil that smells like gas can be due to fuel getting past rings. It can also be caused by a bad diaphram in the fuel pump.
Larry
Last edited by LGriffin; 01/31/2014 3:33 PM.
I don't own a vehicle that isn't old enough to drink. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 6 | Well, the project is progressing. I've managed to get the top end completely disassembled and here's what I've found: The fuel pump was replaced, tons of blue silicon gasket around the opening and into the opening (will need a new one), The valves are pretty covered in carbon buildup, The piston heads are covered in carbon buildup, The carb needs to be rebuilt, Head gasket was leaking...
Tomorrow I hope to pull the pan and see if I can remove the pistons without removing the engine. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 6 | | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | What is the point of gutting an entire motor with it still installed in the engine bay?
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 108 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 108 | FWIW: Your block is a 1978 292, probably from a 1979 truck. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | That will be a practically imposible job doing an in frame o-haul on a 66. Just getting the pan out from under it is a task. That huge crossmember is right in the way. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 5 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 5 | | | |
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