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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
S
New Guy
New Guy
S Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
Hey folks, just picked me up a nice 1966 Chevy C10 with a straight 6, 4.8L, 292. I'm loving this thing but she needs a lot of TLC.

My main issues to begin with are some surging at low speeds (-30mph) and higher speeds (+55mph).
Oil that smells like gas and is thinner in consistency.
Smells like unburnt fuel.
And what looks like an oil leak under the exhaust manifold.

Could all be related...but not sure yet.

It ain't work if it's fun!

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,215
Leo Offline
Moderator
Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,215
Welcome Steve, you would be wise to drain all the fluids before you start anything. Clean things out before you replace with new fluids, you may not know how old that stuff is. Nice to have a 292, great truck engine. As you say, they are a lot of work and also a lot of fun. Just don't let the truck get the better of you.

Leo

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Steve, welcome to the Stovebolt. You 60--66 guys even have your own forum as you probably already have found out. Let us know how we can help by posting in the best forum for your problems.
Good luck, visit often and keep us posted.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
S
New Guy
New Guy
S Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
Well, it looks like I've hit my first mystery of the day. I am trying to remove the head and get to the valves, all the bolts are removed, but the cylinder head will not budge. Do I have to pull the valves before removing the head?

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
Steve: I would not work that deep without a Repair Manual. If manual says you have done it correctly so far, it means you have to knock on it with a block of wood and a hammer, pry bar it all around. Head is heavy and "melded" maybe.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
S
New Guy
New Guy
S Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
I had to take a break, have a beer, and take another look at it. Much to my chagrin, I found the culprit...the bolt for the alternator bracket.

Today I'll be ordering a repair manual and digging even deeper into this thing. I'm having a blast and it's a great "work day stress" relieving "hobby."

Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
Welcome to the Stovebolt. How's the top-end inspection going? Oil that smells of fuel is due, in part, to fuel/air mix getting past the rings & into the crankcase. A compression test on each cylinder will let you know, if you have sticky valves or compromised rings or both. Good luck with your project.

Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,002
L
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
L Offline
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,002
Oil that smells like gas can be due to fuel getting past rings. It can also be caused by a bad diaphram in the fuel pump.

Larry

Last edited by LGriffin; 01/31/2014 3:33 PM.

I don't own a vehicle that isn't old enough to drink.
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
S
New Guy
New Guy
S Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
Well, the project is progressing. I've managed to get the top end completely disassembled and here's what I've found:
The fuel pump was replaced, tons of blue silicon gasket around the opening and into the opening (will need a new one),
The valves are pretty covered in carbon buildup,
The piston heads are covered in carbon buildup,
The carb needs to be rebuilt,
Head gasket was leaking...

Tomorrow I hope to pull the pan and see if I can remove the pistons without removing the engine.

Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
S
New Guy
New Guy
S Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 6
Ran into a bit of a problem this morning...I have no idea what year this engine is.

Here are links to photos, any help identifying the year would be greatly appreciated.

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums...3-4F13-AE78-9BA8DD09560D_zpsfnrvsppz.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums...8-421F-9045-EB4BA2305527_zpspfiwhimi.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums...F-444B-8146-DE9B1ADFDFA0_zpsnz4t58nl.jpg

Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
What is the point of gutting an entire motor with it still installed in the engine bay?

Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 108
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 108
FWIW: Your block is a 1978 292, probably from a 1979 truck.

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
That will be a practically imposible job doing an in frame o-haul on a 66. Just getting the pan out from under it is a task. That huge crossmember is right in the way.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 5
D
New Guy
New Guy
D Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 5
1400209 is a 64 to 67.


Moderated by  Hambone, Woogeroo 

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