I guess that plug-welding rather than spot-welding to replace an original spot-weld would be a non-no (if you have to have factory welds)?
And, it would certainly be wrong to use epoxy primer and urethane paint when doing a full repaint?
Original primer was inferior to modern primers - what original-style primer would you recommend?
Modern acrylic enamel top-coats are readily available and closer in formulation to original synthetic (alkyd) enamel paint - are they OK to use?
Spot weld? I agree, but after you drill out a spot weld there is no possible way to respot weld it. A plug weld can be made to look like a spot weld.
Primer is not seen so does it matter? And there are things you could use if you want inferior. Personaly I don't think the original paints were all that inferior, baked on enamel or thermoset enamel was not and never has been available for you and I.
A glued joint will never out last a welded joint. Just add some rust to the mix. If all old cars and trucks were glued together they would by now be falling apart.
Just like all the faded plastic parts and peeling paint jobs on the newer cars as compaired to older stuff. You never see an old original painted truck with a peeling clear coat. I got a 58 with factory paint no peel throughs, and a 96 thats down to primer? Go figure, and thats with all this modern paint. Yeah right. Give the glue 50 or 60 years and see how well it all holds. Heat and cold cycling is whats going to mess up a glued panel, in the hot sun I know temps go into the 140 degree range and maybe higher in the southern areas.
How to do a butt joint with glue? Can't be done.
