Originally Posted by Desmonaut
Would it be easier to bore the axle out and use the 1.179 kingpin? You'd have to handle a big heavy piece but you wouldn't have to mess with keeping a .035" wall bushing concentric. Just wondering if any one has actually run the bushing setup yet and whether they cut them themselves or farmed it out?

Edit: Now that I've looked at your wonderful photo collection, Grigg, I see that you likely meant the p30 kingpin is 1.375ish diameter. Now it all makes sense. Looks like something I could whip up at work. How much clearance did you allow from the adapter bushing diameter to the stock bushing?

Boring the old axle will change the fit of the kingpin lock bolt/pin and require even more modification. Boring the axle also removes metal from around the kingpin where it's pretty important. Making the bushings fit the spindle and using original 1.109 size kingpins is the safer and I think simpler option.

The bushings aren't all that difficult, it can be as simple as not removing the P-30 bushings and just ream them out to fit the new bushings in.

From my notes, (confirm dimension and fit with your own measuring tools to fit your exact parts)
A P-30 bushing, NAPA part number 262-8273 fits in a about a 1.299" - 1.300" bore.
An old GM 2 ton bushing NAPA part number 262-8081 fits in a 1.229" - 1.230" bore.
So I'd ream the P-30 bushings out to very nearly 1.229" whatever it takes for a proper press fit of the new bushings in. Then ream the new bushings inline to fit the 1.109" kingpin.

Again, I use kingpin kit NAPA 262-1016, it has metal bushings, thrust ball bearings, and is cheaper than other NAPA kits that would also work.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-