Hi Guys. STill lots of comments so I will see if I can fill in some of the blanks that are mentioned.
1. By tight, I mean that using the palm of my hand on a fan blade will leave a mark and is painful. Now, I don't have the strongest hands but using a shop rag will dampen the pain. I am using the fan blade to turn it, not the crank pulley.
2. Yes, the fan can be made to slip when the engine grabs. I use the old method of pressing down on the fan belt to help overcome the slipping when I am trying to turn by hand. When looking from the front of the engine, I am turning clockwise (same direction the starter turns it).
3. The plugs are pulled when I am turning by hand, so timing, I believe, is irrelevant. There is no compression so the actual position of the valves, distributor, etc. don't affect how it turns.
4. The driving I may have mentioned in the past was several passes at a time from the end of my driveway to the shop... about 200 feet, back and forth while I was testing the brakes, clutch, tranny, Brownie, etc. This gives the engine about 20 minutes of run time under some loads in forward and reverse since I can't turn the truck around on the driveway. I have done this maybe 5 or 6 times total.
5. At other times I have just started it and let it idle for 10 or 15 minutes to let it warm up. If I keep the idle above 600 RPM it will keep running. Once the RPM drops below that it will want to stall out and once it dies I can't get it started until it cools back down. When I say cools down, the temp gauge is showing around 180... it is not boiling over, steaming, etc.
6. There is no water in the oil or vice versa when checking the dipstick or radiator.
7. I do plan on pulling the pan after I finish pulling the engine to see what I can find. I have been stalled on pulling it because of snow and rain. The truck is outside since it won't fit in my shop. I currently have everything but the motor mounts and tranny mount undone. So it is coming out no matter what at this point.
8. This engine came out of a pickup that was being junked but I did hear it run before it was pulled. Unfortunately, I did not see it run for any length of time and they jumped it to start it. I installed the starter, new coil, etc. when I converted it to 6V for my application.
9. Bearings in Water Pump and Generator are fine. The water pump was gone through before I installed the engine because I had to convert it to a short shaft to fit in the '49 and I had a specialist rebuild it before I put it in. The generator spins smoothly and had good output to the regulator.
10. Again, my complaint is the slow turning when cranking even with cold. It just seems to turn even worse when warm. Timing is set with a timing light so the ball is on the needle on cylinder 1 with the unit idling at around 600 - 650 RPM. Vacuum advance is sitting around mid range and does move on acceleration. Distributor is on "0" for fuel compensation. Vacuum is around 21" at idle at the base of the carburetor where the hydrovac taps in. It starts right off if I prime the carb when it is cold and pull the choke. It then idles rough until I push the choke in and it will smooth right out but at the higher than desired idle.
I think that covers it for now. I am amazed at all the ideas that are flowing on this topic. I hope this thread will help others with similar problems.
