I replaced my 235 seal with a FelPro rubber lip style. The previous seal was also rubber and had gotten hard. For me I merely used a piece of thin wood dowel to push up on the upper end of the seal and the other side came out far enough for me to pull it out with long nose pliers. I did not have to loosen any of the main caps to 'drop' the crank.
When you install the new seal put it in so that the ends are not in line with the main cap. Something like about 1/4" in the groove and do the same with the main bearing cap. By offsetting the seal it makes the possibility of a leak a little less.


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Sedgewick"
In the Gallery
1989 Caprice