I am NOT complete with the conversion yet but just this week I have moved the shock to the back side on my 52 panel, I have just drilled the needed holes and have the power steering box bolted up. Now I need to tack the bracket, pull the box off and then weld the bracket real good. The power steering box is for a 74 pickup.
Note; I've read LOTS of conversions from the one CPP has, and a couple from other vendors. There are two that have some detailed instructions and pictures.
Now that I have been doing mine I found out the differences in some of the kits. MY kit has 1/2" spaces. On another kit the top two are longer....now I know why! The ones in my kit are 1/2" and let the bracket sit too close to the edge of the "rounded" edge of the chassis. No reason in the world for that as you cannot get a really good weld there..at least not easy. So, I'm cutting my own TOP spacers 3/4" and moving the bracket over toward the center of the chassis, almost against some rivets.
Next: Each article says the same thing but different ways. Some say measure from the center of the axle, some say measure from the front of the chassis. Each comes out ABOUT the same BUT I did some measuring and if I had used a kit from another vendor it would have bolted to the chassis a "little" different. Example is that when installing the kit I have, the two bottom bolts are hard to get to from inside the chassis because of where the crossmembers are. It was a pain in the butt AND marking the place for the bottom rear bolt is also a pain.
Nevertheless, I got it conquered but if I had it to do again I would get the kit with the bracket with all the holes in it. You can then bolt it, with one bolt, and mark other holes to drill in chassis.
Also one kit uses some existing holes!! I may end up liking my kit better, in the end,(Classic Parts) because it appears that the drag link will really be nicely parelelled with the chassis/pitman arm. In other words no heating and bending the pitman arm. (Classic Parts kit "about the same as American Classic but $40 less)
Also be sure to change your grease fitting to the king pins if the one you have is a straight one because when you put the steering arm on you will not be able to get the end of a grease gun hose onto it. I put one in with an angle on it.
I hope I'm not boring you all with this. But there is a difference from one kit to another and we wonder what it is.
Now, why did I choose a 74 gearbox??? One site will say use a box from maybe a 68 thru 76... another site says use one from 68-84. So, what do you do?? I looked up all the part #'s for those years and they change along the way. Not knowing what the REAL difference is I choose the year that the part # ran the longest figuring there are more of them out there if I ever needed another one. So, I choose the last year for that # which was 74 and bought a reman from FLAPS.... and I can buy a new pump, and hoses, for the same gearbox. This same year also had the 305 engine, making it easy to put the pump ect on the engine that I'm using.
I "think" the part #'s changed due to the steering ratios?????
The bolters I've talked to agree that I should not note any difference in the steering...especially since I do not have anything to compare it to.
OOOK, my fingers are getting tired and your getting bored. I just hope this helps someone to take your time, explore the different kits available and make a GOOD decision...if so I'm glad.
Last edited by Achipmunk; 06/06/2009 12:34 AM.
