Thanks for the tip about the knurled nuts Otto, I'm sticking with the hex nuts as I like to crank them tight with a driver.
It's been awhile. I got laid off last year from an over a decade job, and then my computer crashed and I lost some of my build info. Fortunately I have it here, so thanks to Stovebolt.
I'm on to my 3rd job this year, hopefully this one lasts awhile.
I've been driving the truck Two or Three times a week. It still has a long list of little things to work on.
The steering would get stiff after driving 20+ miles on a hot day. I think the intermediate shaft was binding in the lower steering column bushing. I added a u-joint to the intermediate shaft, but it was a sloppy mess. I didn't even drive it, so I took it out rather than add a heim joint. In the end I replaced the rag joint. The new rag joint has more flex than the old. Seems to work o.k. But I really haven't gone on a long enough road test yet.
Last winter I was noticing an oil leak on the pavement on rainy days. It took awhile to figure that out, I kept going up and up until I found the connector on the top of the oil sender was leaky.
One day the truck would not start, I found it was out of gas, good thing I was home. I put 5 gallons in and it fired right up. I took out the fuel gauge and adjusted the needle to show Empty sooner. It still may need an adjustment.
This spring I went to a swap meet and got the chrome strip that goes across the lower speaker grill.
I'm still trying to dial in the speedometer. I worked on the motor controller board, added some capacitors, a low pass filter, some other things. I worked on the code, added a smoothing routine, rearranged the main code, some other things. Today I drove it and the needle was real smooth, just seems to be running slow. Real close to being done with it.


1947.2 Chevy Panel Truck 1-ton
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1955.2 Chevy Suburban
1955.2 Chevy 6700 Bus/RV