I finally figured out how to install the windows in the doors. Glass goes in first, then the regulator, then install the channel onto the rollers, lastly attach the channel to the glass frame. The rollers travel less than the distance between bolts. It has been awhile since I did that last time, 20 years. After I got the window done it wouldn’t roll up or down all the way, a couple inches short. I use the search on this forum and found a simple solution. Roll the window up as far as it will go, loosen the 3 regulator bolts, use a prybar to push the window up the rest of the way, tighten the 3 regulator bolts. The crank part shifted(rotated) like 1/16” and that allowed the window to travel the last couple inches. I was impressed. The window was stiff to roll up and down, but became easier after several days. The welded spring is holding up.
I decided to make the driver door key lock work as it is no fun filing the bowtie hole and I didn’t want to do that again. I welded up on the parts that I had filed away to add some metal, filed it down a little. It works really well. In my haste I didn’t take a picture of the final Key Lever. I installed the latch, installed the rear window channel. In the picture you can see the weld-up on the tang of the Key Lever. The glass install went smoother on this side, but it was still a struggle.
I tend to work on 2 or 3 things at a time. I gave up on using Fender Welt, it didn’t seem to be wide enough to include the bolt holes. I cut some roofing tar paper to place between the fender and the body. There was something like that originally. Since this picture of the front end I have mounted the hood latch. Again a quick search here gave the formula for that adjustment. Push the latch back as far as it will go, close the hood, open the hood, scootch the latch forward(I eyeballed it), tighten the latch bolts. I closed the hood, It sounded solid. I tried the release lever and to my relief it worked. That hood closes tight.
The rear splash pan had some remnants of the seal. The replacement seal did not look right. The original seal is like the shape of a lower case r, the new seal is like the shape of an L. I found something on-line that looked like it might be correct. I called the vendor and asked what the profile of their seal is. They checked with the parts manager and returned to inform me that this piece is straight. I don’t even know what that means, something lost in translation I guess. The new stuff works just fine.
For the interior cargo area. The interior cargo area was in great shape. I told the resto shop to leave it as is. They did not touch it for several months. Someone decided it would be a good idea to remove all the original interior panels and dispose of them discretely. I did not notice until I decided to remove my truck from their shop. The original cargo panel was like a cardboard with a rhino texture. I searched high and low for a modern replacement. I found some tray board with the texture at a local automotive upholstery shop, there is also cowl board available. By the time I was ready to do this part, the upholstery places didn’t know what I was talking about. I finally found a local distributor for the cowl board, and I got some tolex (amplifier covering) for the texture. I used spray adhesive to bond the tolex to the cowl board. The front panels took some effort to get in place. I had to jam it behind the rear rib and slide into place in the lower and front channels. I’m happy with the result, it should help quiet down the area. The next panel I attached some boom mat.
