Most aftermarket ammeters have one long threaded stud that will accommodate multiple ring terminals. I think that maybe some OEM meters are the same. That junction serves as a distribution block for several circuits- - - -ignition switch, generator/alternator output, headlights, heater blower motor, etc. There should be only one conductor on the other terminal- - - -the wire from the ammeter to the battery cable lug at the starter. Wired that way, the ammeter can serve its function properly as a charge/discharge indicator. Another option would be to run a single wire from the ammeter output terminal to a junction block or fuse panel, and do the circuit distribution from there. Stovebolts are notorious for a severe lack of fused circuits, resulting in a "positive smoke check" of the wiring harness in case of a bad short. It's a very good idea to include a fusible link in the wiring from the starter to the ammeter which will burn out before wiring harness damage happens in case of a severe short situation. Splices anywhere in a harness are few and far between on factory wiring. It's more likely to be a cobble job by "Bubba Bad Pliers" sometime in the past 60+ years.
Jerry
