The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Completed Journals 1966 Chevy C-10 Short Stepside -- Step by Step

At this point, I decided to work on being able to start & test run the engine. While I had been very diligent while installing the roller cam & valve train, how it would all work out was an unknown. As shown above, I had the carb, intake, distributor, plug wires & plugs installed at this point.

Next I installed (original) right side inner fender & new, & repop core support. Left all bolts finger tight as this was a mock up to hold my new 4 row Amazon/Chinese radiator in place for the initial engine start up. Re the radiator. I had read on another classic Chevy truck site that there was a very reputable radiator shop near Atlanta Ga . They had top reviews & I had decided to use them for my project. But somehow I stumbled on to this Amazon rad . 4 row & 200 bucks delivered to my door. My thought was I could use this cheap rad to get the truck running & to deal with any unknown build issues that might arise then get the good USA rad when truck was almost ready for the road (In a year or more down the road) TBH, this $ 200 rad looks so well built, I'll probably leave it in till it fails. It fit almost like stock. The upper & lower tanks are slightly thicker to accommodate the 4 row core & is about 1/2 inch wider that original 6 cyl rad. All easy to overcome.

Next problem was the fan. I wanted to use clutch fan from the RV donor, but the fan blades were 19 " 5 blade & were going to interfere with the lower radiator hose. An internet search turned up a set of 17" 6 blade GM fan blades for 1/2 price (They were returned units) They fit my clutch hub & were perfect for my application.

Using exh flanges from the old donor RV exhaust & tubing & mufflers from Advance Auto, I brazed up a temp exhaust system.

Misc items like the ign coil, Temporary fuel line, electric fuel pump, necessary temp wiring, etc had to be worked out. I had planned to re-use the battery box, which bolts to the rad core & the right inner fender, but after soaking it in vinegar realized that it was more rust than steel. So a new battery box was added to the install. I had purchased a new, high cranking amp battery (that fit the C10 battery box)back when I first started the engine in the RV, so that was installed as well.

After filling rad with 50/50 coolant, adding 6 qts 10-30 oil to the crankcase along with new oil filter, engine was ready to fire up. Actually, I had already installed oil & filter & had used an adaptor & electric drill to pre-lube the engine prior to installing the distributor. Sorry, memory needs to go on auto- correct once in a while.

Engine started & ran well after a few minor adjustments. I had hooked up a timing light w/tachometer before starting engine & used it to set initial timing & idle (fairly smooth @ 700 rpm) Temp went to180 F ,oil pressure was 20 psi idling & 40 at higher rpm's.

All was well. Or so I thought. Turns out, I had a couple or three issues to deal with.