Reviving my old thread because it contains some useful background on where I’ve been.
Short summary: new fuel tank and sender (when I bough the truck). Gauge worked fine until I began this thread. Discovered a leaking float. Once that was fixed I had a little alignment thing to solve to get full float arm travel. Then the gauge worked for a while…until it didn’t.
For the past _____ months, the gauge has been pegged at full any time the key is on. I’ve just lived with it, but finally got annoyed enough this weekend to attempt yet another diagnosis and fix.
I assumed I was dealing with a crummy sender ground. That is not the case. Test light shows the sender ground working properly. Gauge stays pegged full even if I directly ground the “center post” sender wire. Resistance from sender center post to ground is 18 ohms. We should be reading something other than totally full.
Working through the steps in the procedure posted on page 1, it would seem that my next moves are:
* Test for voltage at the sender. (Easy enough, I think it can do this by “feel” without disassembling gauge cluster).
* Check for continuity, sender wire to gauge. (Again, sounds easy enough)
Depending what I learn there, I need some guidance with the further instructions:
* Run a jumper wire for cluster to ground - Any place on the back of cluster? Or so I need to be more targeted to the fuel gauge?
* If I have to go as far as removing the fuel gauge - Am I removing the entire cluster with the nuts from behind the cluster? And then uncrimping the fuel gauge from the cluster?
Last edited by JW51; 04/10/2023 3:12 PM.
