Thanks Jon for the redirection to the other thread, I never considered a dual magnet scheme.... I guess this was done for less bouncing of the needle when driving.
As background, I am simply trying to get the fuel gauge to work, it has not worked since I purchased the truck. First action was getting it running, now fixing the "little" things. So I have not touched the gauge itself, I started on the sending unit as it was the more likely culprit. Initially it stayed on EMTPY. I cleaned the ground at the sender (under the body), no change. I pulled the sending unit connector, cleaned and added dielectric grease and replugged. At one point I did the reconnection at the sender with the Ignition ON, and the gauge went to FULL and has stayed there since.
As previously noted, I've unplugged the sender connector, I've grounded it, and I've removed the battery ground and the gauge remains stuck at FULL. I've even tapped (with a rubber mallet) the gauge and dash area when the batter was disconnected in case it was mechanically stuck.... still stuck at FULL.
So with no ground connection to the battery it seems to me that the gauge has to be mechanically broken... unless there is some other aspect I'm missing. I guess if mine is a spring-based return mechanism it could be the spring popped off when the gauge slammed to FULL, but how would I tell. The truck is a 1950 3100 with original parts as far as know in this area.
