At least it doesn't suffer from warpage like the "B" but it can be warped by overtightening by noobs. Check for warpage regardless.
Jon has the best gaskets .. period. Avoid the cheap gasket sets. Avoid old original NOS gaskets (shrinkage issues).
Jon has warned us that some new float bowl fuel valves, regardless where you buy them, may leak due to incomplete machining process.
Search for "staking the seat". It can save you a lot of headaches from flooding and leaking gaskets.
The bi-metal coil on/in the exhaust manifold and associated linkage is an improvement from the heat stove and heat tube design (automatic choke).
My opinion is that the old heat stove allows contaminants into the choke housing an is an on-going maintenance issue.
I have no experience with the Monojet but I'm guessing the bi-metal coil arrangement is used for fast idle, a convenience, until warmed up.
You could probably make it a fully manual choke if you wish.
Suggestions from a novice:
Take pictures then take more pictures as you disassemble the carburetor. You will need it for reference.
I would avoid media blasting of any type, for now, mainly because of tiny passages that can be quite difficult to clean out.
I learned the hard way and the next time I taped them up and only lightly used blasting in those areas I was sure of.
Degrease to get the heavy particles off.
Dish washing liquid, warm water, ultrasonic cleaner, tooth brush, Scotch Brite pad (carbon build-up) and compressed air.
I use Vapo-Rust for heavily rusted parts.
