Lm7 / Ls flywheel holder jig/tool. I finally torqued my balancer tonight and I couldn’t have done it alone without this tool. You REALLY have to crank on these harmonic balancers to get tight (TTY bolt method: old bolt to seat it: 240 ft/lbs, new bolt + 37 ft/lbs more,THEN + 140° more rotation! GOOD GRIEF! ARP Bolt uses 235 ft/lbs even and some lube- route I took ) and I’ve seen some homemade tools but I feel mine was easier and faster to make. My torque wrench is a 3/4” drive that is just over 3’ long! I have posted this in my journal but someone might find this useful in a more general forum for future reference. 1. I took a piece of angle iron, clamped it lightly to the flywheel, marked /measured holes on the starter bolts mount area, removed and drilled. Reinstalled. 2. Then, I made teeth in a small chunk of 1/2” plate and grinded it to fit the flywheel teeth. If you have an old chunk of flywheel kicking around, this would speed you up considerably. 3. Mesh with the teeth of flywheel, clamp to angle iron. Weld it on. 4. Install and torque your balancer bolt.
Remove jig.
This worked unbelievably well. All work was done on an engine stand.
Last edited by Fox; 02/01/20216:09 AM.
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300