Your setup looks just like mine except the clutch adjustment rod. I can’t tell you, if you have the correct clutch installed. Maybe one of our experts can help you with this. I know that there is several sizes available. Mine calls for a 9” clutch and I don’t know if a 1/4” makes a difference or not. But with the linkage appearing to be correct, the clutch is now suspect especially since you just changed it. Another supporting factor, is that the adjustment changed so drastically indicating that the stack height of the pressure plate, clutch disk and throwout bearing is smaller that the one you removed, necessitating the adjustment. That would move the fork back toward the rear of the truck causing your problem.
Are you sure that you assembled the clutch and throw out bearing correctly? I know there have been other “Bolters” that had the disk in backwards. My clutch disk had “This side toward flywheel” stamped on one side.
Do you have the old clutch to compare it too?
[edit] the return spring on mine is fairly weak also, but it does fully return the pedal.
At any rate, its worth dropping the inspection cover to relook at it.
Last edited by Phak1; 12/09/20209:42 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
