Here are some pics. I did not get a shot of the bell housing crank arm, I will do that tomorrow. From your picture Phil I think I got my linkage correct but the actual crank arm looks different on mine. I mentioned in the first post that I installed a 235. The previous motor was a 216 (ran like a watch) and before that was also a 216. I am using the 216 bell housing and flywheel with the push button starter. The bell crank, transmission and shifting rods are all the same parts as before the 235 transplant. Could there be a difference between a 235 and 216 bell crank? I know that I am using my 216 gas pedal but the rod that goes from the bell crank on the block does not mate with the carburetor accelerator rod, as an example of possible differenced. I believe I need a rod for the automatic choke carb. I tried to capture on the pictures the interference of the 1st gear rod on the 2nd-3rd trans arm. It is just slight although it might be a little sloppy with out the springs on the rod. If the tran is in 1st gear and I am trying to shift to neutral, I step on the clutch and trying to bring up the column shifter to neutral, the shift rod will interfere on the fork which is back because of stepping on the clutch. You can see that in the pictures. The off centered bell housing and fly wheel theory is interesting, I hope that is not the issue as it may be difficult to check with the engine in the truck. Can it be the clutch kit itself. I wish I would have taken down the measurements but the new clutch did seem not as tall as the old one. Although it would also mater how the TB location compares to the old one. I am thinking that if because the clutch is not as tall as before, now the TB is closer to the fly wheel, which means the fork is pivoted in more to begin with and the adjustment end of the fork is further back. Note sure if that makes sense. The NAPA kit was NCF 1104123. Perhaps I have the fork adjustment incorrect? Maybe the rods at the column box has to be adjusted?
