During my career in the Nuclear industry, I used a two part metal repair epoxy called Belzona to repair pump casings and heat exchangers damaged by cavitation, electrolysis or just plain negligence. This was the industry’s cure for long lead time parts on a temporary basis. Industrial, excessively expensive and extremely effective. One of the tricks I used to keep epoxy in place was to make temporary forms or dams. Made of wood or plastic or pretty much anything, to duplicate the surface that you wanted to achieve, then waxed with a paste wax such as Johnson’s to keep it from sticking. Once cured, it would simply pry off. The wax coating would allow the form to release creating a near perfect surface, In most cases, I didn’t need to clamp in place as the suction created when you press it in place was enough to keep the dam in place, I would think this method would work on JB Weld or other epoxy or even bondo.
I would make it similar to the edited picture. If you can match the thickness from the face of the lip to where the outer part of the gasket sits, you can use the face of the wood as a guide to smooth out the gasket surface. Press the epoxy into all of the little crevices first then build up slightly higher than you need, press the form in, clamp if you need then let it cure. Cleanup will be minimal.
Last edited by Phak1; 12/01/20202:15 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
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